Returning from a corporate career, founder and creative director of Homeland Elegies, a home-grown fashion label kicked off in 2022 which resonates with all things Nagaland in inspiration, colours, patterns and artisanal weaves. We catch up Nongo on what makes the brand stand out in drawing from the earthiness of the State, how it is revolutionising men’s fashion and making it relevant for today’s conscious buyers and wearers.
Tell us about your latest drops
For the Naga collection, we have looked at old Naga textiles, researched anthropological and textile books on Nagaland, looked at the Nagaland collection at Pitts River Museum etc to come up with new interpretations. In the Rapture shirt or the Sacred Forest shirt, we explored the chevron pattern that we often see in Naga textiles….which we then hand-screenprinted on soft airy handwoven cotton. For the Naga Ao shirts, we looked at shawls from the Ao Naga tribes which were then hand-woven over the looms. In the artist collection, our inspirations were Jackson Pollock, Shomei Tomatsu, Yiyun Li, Rachel Kushner etc. The techniques explored were the crafts of hand-painting, hand screen-printing, and hand block printing on hand-woven fabrics. In our Infinity Shirts, we looked for inspiration in the works of Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama and her life-long fascination with Polkas. We worked with our artisans to hand-painted free-wheeling polkas in Indigo, Navy, Green, Black etc on very fine and soft hand-woven fabrics. In Matisse shirt, we looked at the work of the French visual artist Henri Matisse, specifically a collage called, ‘The Snail’, making literature a vital inspiration.
What colour palettes do you like to work with?
I mostly try to inculcate the cardinal color palette used in Naga textiles - red, blue, black and white.
Some of the fabrics you like to work with and why?
I work only with artisanal handwoven fabrics - cotton, cotton silk, silk, tencel (wood pulp) etc mostly because these fabrics are soft and breathable for the climate we live in and also aligns with values of sustainability, organic production, minimum carbon foot print etc and most importantly we are able to support our talented craftsmen and artisans by commissioning the fabrics.
Nagaland itself is very rich in textiles and tribal culture. How do they influence your design aesthetics?
Homeland Elegies is an exploration and an enquiry into the questions of identity, otherness, the idea of home and belongingness.
We’re particularly fascinated about exploring the notions of masculinity and how male beauty has evolved or changed by looking back at indigenous cultures from India and around the world where men have been more expressive, playful and sensual. Our products are an ode to the tribal people and their lively, sensuous and joyous way of fully celebrating life
Through our collections we've researched traditional Naga textile patterns and we endeavor to revitalize and preserve our indigenous heritage and culture by interpreting them, making it relevant for the contemporary audience and giving them a new lease of life. Our fabrics are handwoven in very fine cotton and silk and these textile designs are unique to our brand. Most of the designs in the collection are attempts at interpretation and innovation of textile patterns of the Naga tribes.
How has menswear evolved in recent times?
I feel men are becoming a little more adventurous and experimental with their wardrobes and opting for more unique silhouettes, prints, colors etc
Two monsoon essentials that should be in the wardrobe of every man
Perhaps a nice umbrella and an aesthetically pleasing water-proof, anti-slip sandals.
One fashion mistake men make and how can it be prevented?
Opting for loud luxury brands head to toe possibly to signal their perceived status. I feel one should pick clothing that one is comfortable with and is basically an extension of ones’ personality and distinctive style that is unique.
In an age of multi-occasional wear, how can your designs be doubled up for different occasions?
We have the ‘staples’ which is basically relaxed easy silhouettes in comfortable fabrics and solid muted colors that one can wear at home or work. The print collection can be worn for beach or party. The artist collection can be worn for special events when you want to stand out.
How would you describe your personal fashion choices?
I mostly end up wearing my own brand and combine it with some thrift/vintage finds. Most of the selections are intuitive and driven by circumstance: sometimes sharpen up to impress for work meetings, sometimes layer up and cocoon myself when feeling the blues, sometimes make a little more effort for a social evening. Comfort and originality is something I look for.
Price Rs 3500+ onwards
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