Cushions of sequins shimmered like desert sand, silhouettes swayed like windswept dunes, and heritage met haute couture in a dramatic fashion comeback. Rina Dhaka, one of India’s most iconic designers, made a striking return to the runway—this time in Dubai, at The Afra World, a rising platform for South Asian luxury that’s quickly shaping global conversations in fashion.
Niti Gupta, Founder & Creative Director of The AFRA World, and Curator of the NIFT Alumni Networking Group, envisioned the showcase as a statement.
“South Asian designers bring with them a vast repertoire of design sensibilities, artisanal skill, and cultural depth. Platforms like The Afra World create space for these voices to be heard globally—opening new markets, new narratives, and redefining what luxury means today,” says Niti.
Rina’s latest collection, inspired by the Sahara Desert, is an ode to both fragility and power. Working with an earthy palette of ecru, ivory, and sand, the designer channeled the ever-changing moods of the desert—from sunlit shimmer to soft shadows.
“We were inspired by the vastness and colours of the dunes, the sparkle of sun on sand. Sequinned handwork mimics that shimmer, while the silhouettes flow like wind over the landscape,” explains Rina.
But this collection was more than just surface beauty. Known for her commitment to sustainable design, Rina incorporated repurposed bias-cut silks, organic cottons, and even cording waste dried and reworked into decorative detailing. Each piece took upwards of 100 hours to create—luxury, not just in look, but in labour.
“We’ve proven that elegance and eco-consciousness can coexist. Our buyers today are mindful. They want fashion that reflects who they are—fierce, feminine, and future-facing,” she says.
Rina’s standout pieces, including her intricately embroidered Desert Rose gowns, not only celebrated femininity but also paid homage to traditional Indian craftsmanship with a modern, global lens.
“Our designs use age-old Indian techniques, but our silhouettes are contemporary—made for the woman who travels effortlessly between cultures,” Rina shares.
For Niti, that’s exactly the point. “Events like The Afra World shift the demographic of luxury fashion. They don’t just showcase collections—they change perceptions, spark collaborations, and help legacy designers like Rina reframe their stories for a new generation,” says Niti.
Rina Dhaka’s comeback proves, sometimes all it takes is a desert wind, a timeless craft, and a bold platform to bring new life to legacy.
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—manuvipin@newindianexpress.com
@ManuVipin
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