A mother’s salwar kameez, a grandmother’s sari, a dupatta carefully folded away, never leave the house. They carry more than embroidery and fabric; they hold memories, milestones and the people who wore them before us.
It is this emotional relationship with clothing that lies at the heart of Niti Bothra’s latest collection, Zar:Rang. Niti set out to create occasion wear that could live beyond a single celebration. “Zar:Rang came from my love for heirloom clothing,” she shares. “Outfits that feel special, that you can re-wear again and again, and even pass on to your loved ones someday.”
The name itself brings together two ideas central to the collection. ‘Zar’ is the Persian word for gold, while ‘Rang’ speaks of colour. Together, they inform an edit where vibrant festive hues meet gold-toned hand embroidery. Traditional Indian craftsmanship remains at its center, but the silhouettes and styling are designed for the way women dress today.
For Niti, timelessness is not about resisting change. “For me, an heirloom is defined by longevity, emotion and legacy,” she explains. Saris, lehengas and anarkalis are reimagined through contemporary proportions, while silk, organza and Chanderi bring a sense of elegance that can endure beyond a season. The intention is to create pieces that feel relevant now but still have enough character to be cherished years later.
The collection shines a spotlight on Calcutta zardozi alongside techniques such as tilla work, pitta kasab, Sojankari-inspired zardozi, fareesha, challa and thuss jaal. Niti was particularly drawn to the richness of tilla, as well as the textural quality of fareesha and challa. “What fascinated me was being able to witness how these techniques combined together to form layers of embroidery that reveal more and more details every time you look at them,” she says.
Her relationship with artisans is equally integral to the process. Niti sees the karigars as collaborators. “My sketches may communicate an idea, but the artisans I work with understand how a particular technique behaves on a fabric, how much weight a surface can carry and how the embroidery will move with the body,” she explains. “It’s a creative exchange.”
That understanding extends to the textiles themselves. Silk, Chanderi and organza form the foundation of the collection, each bringing a distinct quality to the elaborate handwork. Silk offers richness, Chanderi brings softness and an understated sheen, while organza introduces lightness and movement. Niti particularly enjoys combining the three, using contrasting organza dupattas to bring freshness to richer silk and Chanderi ensembles.
Jewel tones bring celebration, metallic accents echo the ‘Zar’ in the collection’s name, while softer neutrals prevent the palette from feeling overwhelming. The result is festive luxury with a classic edge. Niti has noticed a growing curiosity around who made a piece, how it was embroidered and how much skill went into it. “When you understand the work behind a piece, you value it differently,” she explains. “It stops being just something you wear for an occasion and becomes something you want to keep, return to, and perhaps even pass on.”
If one piece captures the spirit of Zar:Rang, Niti points to its embellished jacket. The piece is contemporary in its confident silhouette yet steeped in traditional handwork.
The collection is about carrying on traditions. “It is really about continuity. Respecting where a technique comes from, while allowing it to evolve with time,” Niti shares. For the women who wear these clothes, that continuity may begin with a celebration today and continue years later, when the same garment becomes someone else’s heirloom story.
Prices start at Rs 39,999. Available online.
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