The most renowned mithai of Almora has a history which runs from the time when roads of the hills were made by the British to the time of the war in Burma. This fudgy khoya sweet, known as Baal Mithai, was unknown till the beginning of the 20th century. It is made of browned caramalized khoya. Local folklore says Kumaoni soldiers carried Baal Mithai to Burma during World War II.
Almora was the headquarters of the Kumaon Commissioners after 1857, following the takeover of the province by the British Crown. Almora was the cultural centre of Kumaon and its back-door entry point. Kathgodam was at least a two-day journey from motorised buses passing via Kosi, Ranikhet, Bhowali and Jeolikot. The villagers of Bageshwar, Gangoli Haat and Pithoragarh came walking for six or seven days.
There were a few confectioneries catering to orthodox clients. Sweets made from condensed milk like kalalkand and singorhi were popular. Gulab ki mithai was the speciality of Durga Halwai in Lala Bazaar. Common people depended on gudh and misri. The soldiers of the First Great War took bhelis of gudh and about half a seer of misri with them.
Later, Baal Mithai was introduced by Joga Lal Sahji. It is said to be imported from Nepal. However, the people of Almora say that the shop of Shah was where this mithai originated. Sahji could have come across the preparation called 'jale khoa ka peda' in Bhind-Muraina. He shaped slow-cooked khoya into rectangular pieces and covered them with poppy seeds.
The two brothers, Khim Singh and Mohan Singh, known as the Rautela brothers, had been working under Sahji until they started their own shop at the location close to the KMOU Bus Stop in Mall Road using good granulated khoya from a village near Lodi.
Eventually, the manufacturing process moved to Lodhia, where many shops came up. Demand outstripped supply, and some producers even resorted to importing adulterated khoya from the plains. After the formation of the state of Uttarakhand, the sweet achieved cult status.
It has a sweet caramel-like taste. It is costly but can be stored for longer periods. The locals appreciate the soft and real flavour. Traditional Baal Mithai is soft, supple and creamy in taste. It has a dark brown colour owing to the dark brown khoya used. The poppy seeds used in the past are now substituted by sugar globules.
Start by heating 2 tbsp of ghee along with 2 kg of khoya and cook for about 30 minutes till it turns completely brown. Also, heat 200 g sugar with 1 litre of water. Mix the brown khoya with 300 g of sugar and slowly add the syrup to it. It takes another 5-8 minutes to make the recipe. Once it gets set, cool it in a greased tray.
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