We knew we were in trouble when the lotus root chips started disappearing before we had properly decided whether we liked them. At Stix, Hyatt Regency Chennai, we quickly realised the Golden Dragon Feast—which brings together flavours from Canton, Sichuan, and Hunan—was going to require some restraint. That is usually a good sign at a restaurant, when the conversations pause because everyone is busy reaching for the same plate.
We started with Warm edamame with yuzu and Maldon salt, a dish that gets its restraint right. The yuzu is so subtle that we had to actively look for it, but the flaky salt does enough to keep things interesting. Every now and then, it comes through with a little burst of saltiness and a lovely change in texture, keeping the edamame firmly in charge.
Then came a soup, a light Hunan-style broth with shimeji mushrooms and truffle oil. The Mala crispy lotus root chips were a different story. The lotus root is cut a little thicker than usual, fried until crisp and served with a heap of dried red chilli. The chef compares them to French fries, and we can see why. They have that same satisfying crunch and easy, snackable quality, with the dried chilli giving them a distinctly Chinese edge. If you are a committed French fry person, this is a surprisingly good detour.
Then came the Chongqing pepper chicken, battered and fried chicken tossed with pepper, garlic and spring onions. This is where we would advise some discipline. It is the kind of dish you can keep picking at without realising how much you have eaten, and by the time the mains arrive, you will wonder where all your appetite went.
By the time the mains arrived, we were already negotiating stomach space. The Hunan crispy chilli chicken turned out to be one of the more interesting plates of the meal. Crispy chicken and leeks come in a light orange sauce, taking the familiar orange-and-chicken combination in a slightly different direction. It may take a bite or two to understand where it is going. Then, rather suddenly, you get it. Three bites later, we were addicted.
Chairman Mao’s red-braised pork comes with a little history on its plate. The Hunanese classic is associated with Mao Zedong, who was born in Hunan and was said to have enjoyed the dish. Traditionally, the pork gets its deep red-brown colour from the red-braising process, often involving soy, sugar and Shaoxing wine. Here, beetroot also gives the dish its striking colour, while crispy pork belly, Shaoxing wine and leafy greens bring the richness, sweetness and savoury depth.
The Spicy hokkien noodles were another crowd-pleaser. The noodles are fried and crisp, then tossed with soy and chilli, giving the table something with a completely different texture. We could already see why children would enjoy these, especially anyone who has ever had a strange fondness for eating instant ramen before it has been cooked. But there is more going on here than that familiar crunch. The chilli and soy keep the dish from becoming a novelty act.
Dessert was the Jasmine Tea-infused Panna Cotta, which is denser than the usual panna cotta and has a gentle custard-like flavour. The jasmine itself is deliberately quiet. If you want more of it, the syrup is where the flavour really comes through, so use it generously.
Meal for two: Rs 2500-3000++. On till October 15. 12.30 pm to 3 pm and 7 pm to 11 pm. At Stix, Hyatt Regency, Teynampet.
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