Located at an unmistakably known spot, newly opened ingredient-forward, concept menu-driven diner Spiegel, by Shakyasingha Chakraborty and Arpita Saha is a delight in itself. Even before you enter the space, that it is rooted in the traditions of Bengal becomes very clear from the handpainted walls around the boundary.
As we stepped into Spiegel, this cozy diner was nothing short of an art gallery in itself. And a very special one at that! Drawn from folk and indigenous art forms through hand-drawn paintings and photographs of select items from the menu, the decorated walls were really welcoming.
As we sat against the warm sun rays hitting our backs, we dived straight into the seasonal favourite- Nolen Gurer Daiquiri. Completely resembling the colour of this Winter specialty, the sweet drink had a hint of spicy mango –chilli twist. We accompanied it with Vegetable chop with bandel cheese stuffing. Absolutely different from the clichéd idea of a vegetable chop, the stuffing was very mashy with bits of smoky bandel cheese. What caught our senses was the smell of petrichor that the dish evoked. Next, was an Italian fusion to the all-time comfort food Kolkata street chowmein. Called Calcutta Street- Chicken, the dish was all flavours of the noodles but made with spaghetti.
For the mains, we started off with Gondhoraj Fish Amok. With a Cambodian touch, the dish was actually served in a boat-like structure. One look at it and one would think it resembled a Paturi, but far from it, the dish was more soufflé-ish in texture with eggs and fish , perfectly cooked in an absolutely not overpowering Gondhoraj. We followed it with Full Black. A perfectly roasted chicken thigh on a bed of risotto made of black rice. The black and smokey colour of the dish gave it the unique name. The succulent chicken pieces and the perfect consistency of thick and juicy risotto made our day.
All that food left us craving for another drink and this time it was the sweet and refreshing Colour of Passion. Our third main for the day was the Nonibahar. The sweet-sounding recipe name was actually a fresh piece of fish in sweet gravy. If you love seafood, especially fish, then dish is the one that shouldn’t be missed out.
Following the auspicious tradition of curd and puffed rice with a mango-chilli and a touch of alcohol twist, the Boozy Khoi doi was the perfect end to a wholesome meal. The experience was a lesson in fusion food with traditional ingredients and recipes, equally serving as a means of documenting and conserving lost heritage.
At 1st Floor, KB26, Sector 3, Bidhan Nagar
Opening times: Tuesday - Sunday, 12 noon - 10:30 pm
Price for two (approx.): Rs 1200+
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