When talking about south Indian food, the wheel of choice usually stands still at a handful dishes like idli, dosa, sambhar, and a variety of vada. But, with rich seafood availability, lush coconut fields and delectable merging of indigenous coastal cuisines, there is much more to it. Highlighting these very parameters and beyond is Chef Arun Vijayan who puts up a Kerala-cuisine pop-up for lunch and dinner at Fairfield by Marriott, Kolkata.
We visited the dinner service which was much more than just tasting food from down South. It was an experience! Earthen bowls with warm water to clean our hands was just the beginning. Then came long banana leaves, neatly marked in between so that one can fold it both ways. Once the leaves, which serve as traditional plates in most south Indian households or occasions, were placed in front of us, came an array of dishes. From garlic chutney, raita, beetroot chutney to chilli chicken, rice, Kerala-style Chicken Biryani and payasam, all made sure to douse our appetites. And to show our appreciation, the banana leaf was folded towards us which signifies, in a traditional setting, a satiated stomach.
We also recommend anyone coming over to try out Pineapple Fish Moilee, Chutta Kozhi Chaps, Meen Manga Curry, Kerala Chicken Roast, Pulissery, Kallappam, and Vendakka Mezhukkupuratti. In fact, fish lovers in particular will get ample choices to choose from. While we enjoyed the food, we also noted how light each of the dishes were. Thus, we engaged in a hearty chat with Chef Arun, who decoded the meal and cuisine for us.
All about Kerala cuisine
Talking about hosting a Kerala cuisine special menu in Kolkata Chef says, “The reason to host this Kerala menu is because in Kolkata, people are expecting local and traditional food. We are not doing a fusion menu, and, in fact, we are keeping the traditional recipe intact and following it.”
What stood out the most in the entire dinner service was how despite the South being famous for spices, the dishes were so light and non-spicy. When we asked about it, he mentioned, “In Karnataka and Tamil Nadu, they use strong spices. But in Kerala, we use mild spices only. The difference is because of people’s expectations. In Kerala, people don’t like to have a lot of spicy dishes.”
Before concluding one had to turn the pages to Biryani, one of the soul dishes of India. The Kerala Biryani was visibly lighter in spices and aroma and made with a different kind of rice than one in Kolkata is used to. He notes, “Our Biryani masala is not strong and that gives more taste and flavour to the dish. Moreover, the secret to a good Malabari Biryani is the combination of Kaima rice and meat.
On till August 30, 2026
Price per person: Rs 1649+ onwards
At Kava, Fairfield by Marriott, Kolkata
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