The festive season has arrived, and with it the bustle of family plans and the ritual of deep cleaning at home. Food, of course, sits at the heart of it all — and here, the divide is clear. Some fast. Others feast.
Navratri, the nine-day holy period in the Hindu calendar, gives food a dual role: ritual and preparation. For elders, fasting is more than devotion. It is a pause from the regular diet, a way to cleanse the body and ready it for the north’s biting winters.
But Delhi and its satellite towns tell a different story. The National Capital Region is a cultural melting pot, and the presence of a large Bengali community means this season is as much about indulgence as restraint.
In Chittaranjan Park and Greater Kailash, the epicentre of Puja festivities, narrow lanes are alive with colour. Red dupattas edged with golden gota glimmer from stalls, destined to drape idols of Durga. Coconuts sit piled in pyramids. Baskets brim with jau — barley seeds that many households sow on the first day of Navratri, nurturing them as symbols of prosperity. Side by side, Puja and Navratri rituals unfold, not in opposition but in harmony.
Food vendors, meanwhile, adapt to every palate. Mithai shops roll out “no-onion, no-garlic” aloo tikkis, sabudana vadas and fruit chaats. Restaurants pitch saatvik thalis to those observing fasts, eager to bring a little variety to austere plates.
And yet, there is room for feasting too. My own Navratri is a blend — lighter meals during the day, richer Bengali suppers by night. South Indian sundals often feature at my table as well, with the chickpea and coconut version a personal favourite.
Across NCR, the dining scene responds with innovation. Modern vegetarian restaurants lead the charge, creating menus that respect the fast but still appeal to a discerning urban diner. Increasingly, conscious eating is woven into the narrative, reflecting the preferences of a well-travelled crowd that seeks more than tradition: it seeks variety, balance and intent.
Beyond restaurants, the pandals bring their own spectacle. In the heart of Noida, the Durgabari hosts a grand mela where rows of Bengali stalls dish out rolls, chops, cutlets, bhajas (fritters), makhas (spiced mixes) and more. Here, celebration takes the form of flavour, offering a joyous pause from the work-heavy weeks that usually govern our lives.
The spirit of it all is simple: to come together, to mark the days ahead, and to welcome the season through food — the first and most enduring expression of festivity.
And as the week of celebrations recedes, Delhi begins to embrace its most glorious time of year. Winter approaches, and with it the city transforms into a haven of picnics, outdoor brunches and long, convivial afternoons in the sun.