Potato, an integral part of Kolkata biryani, has a strong connection with the exile of Nawab Wajid Ali Shah, which happened in 1856. The Nawab was exiled by the British, and along with him came his royal chefs who retained Awadhi recipes intact.
In 1856, during the final years of the British Empire, the exiled Nawab Wajid Ali Shah was forced out of his Kingdom by the British and moved from Lucknow to Kolkata. The Nawab, being a food lover, was accompanied by his khansamas (royal chefs) to ensure he could enjoy his favourite foods all the time.
The theory that comes first is about the economic situation of the Nawab after he was exiled. As his funds were running low, meat became too costly for him. In response to this, the palace chefs started using less meat and more potatoes in the biryani. According to researchers, there was a change in the flavour of the dish too. There was less use of spices, and the potatoes provided a counterpoint to the spiced rice and meat.
But not everybody agrees with this theory. Another theory suggests that potatoes in Kolkata biryani did not serve as an alternate ingredient to meat. At that period, potatoes were viewed as an exotic and luxury item. So they were added to the recipe for the biryani, which symbolized luxury and prestige.
Also, there is a scientific explanation as to why the potato was chosen over other vegetables for this recipe. Potato is a root vegetable with a starchy cellular structure. So, it is capable of absorbing meat juices, flavours, and fats in large amounts. Rice, on the other hand, is a grain that absorbs lesser amounts of flavours.
Many aficionados say the quality of potato in Kolkata biryani is an indicator of the quality of the entire dish. The perfect biryani potato will be soft and juicy, but still stay in one piece.
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