Some cities are destinations; others are experiences that unfold around you. Varanasi — or Kashi, Kasi, Banaras, Benaras — a city with as many names as it has legends; is the latter. Our arrival began with a drive from the airport, but with every turn, as modern roads gave way to older lanes and towering structures softened into weathered façades — it felt as though we were leaving the present behind and stepping into the pages of history.
The roads gradually narrowed, the buildings grew older and the air seemed to become heavier — almost as if the city itself was breathing, sighing under the weight of centuries of stories. Every turn revealed another chapter of history: a colonial-era structure standing beside a Mughal-era haveli, an ancient temple appearing between modern shops and centuries-old walls quietly watching over the chaos unfolding around them. As we moved closer to the banks of the River Ganga, it felt as though every few steps added another layer to the timeline. The world grew older, but somehow more alive.
Welcome to Varanasi — one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in India and one of the oldest living cities in the world. With a history stretching back several thousand years, Kashi has remained a centre of spirituality, culture, music, art and learning. It is a city where life and death, devotion and daily routine, ancient rituals and modern ambitions coexist — often within the same narrow lane. And those lanes are an experience by themselves.
Finding our way to jüSTa Luxé - Kashi Parampara, our home for this holiday, was our first lesson in navigating Varanasi. The hotel is tucked away in a tiny street so charmingly narrow that our vehicle had to surrender a short distance away. But the little walk — barely 20 steps — turned out to be one of the most memorable parts of the arrival. Because in Varanasi, the city begins before the hotel does.
The senses are immediately overwhelmed — and delightfully so. The aroma of fresh chai mixes with the fragrance of flowers from garland shops preparing offerings for temples. The scent of incense floats through the air, competing with the irresistible smell of samosas, kachoris and street-side snacks being fried nearby. Add a little dust, the distant presence of the Ganga and the constant hum of people, prayers and conversations — and you have the unmistakable perfume of Kashi.
jüSTa Luxé - Kashi Parampara feels like it has been plucked straight out of the city’s history and carefully dressed for contemporary travellers. A traditional haveli transformed into a luxury boutique hotel, the property retains the warmth and character of an ancestral home rather than feeling like a standard five-star establishment. There is something wonderfully comforting about it. It feels less like checking into a hotel and more like being welcomed into the home of a large, well-travelled family — one that has upgraded the furniture, added elegant interiors and decided that guests deserve plush beds and impeccable hospitality.
At the heart of the property is a beautiful open courtyard, reminiscent of traditional Indian architectural styles. While the design instantly evokes the familiar charm of South Indian ancestral homes, we learn that courtyards have also long been an important feature of traditional Kashi homes, allowing light, air and life to flow through the house. The hotel is also a celebration of art. The walls feature striking artworks sourced from Chitrashaala, an initiative by jüSTa Hotels & Resorts that showcases works by artists across its properties. The result is a space where heritage and contemporary creativity sit comfortably together — much like Varanasi itself.
After a quick refresh, we head to the hotel’s restaurant, ready for our first meal. And if there is one thing Varanasi teaches you quickly, it is that hunger should never be taken lightly. The food arrives as a generous celebration — rotis, puris, sabzis and enough variety to create a full thali at every meal. Each meal during our stay becomes a delightful reminder that Indian hospitality often expresses itself through the simple question: would you like some more? The answer, obviously, is always yes.
The beauty of Varanasi is best explored on foot. The city reveals itself slowly — through ancient temples, bustling markets, hidden courtyards and the endless line of ghats along the Ganga. Every corner offers a glimpse of what makes Banaras unique: its famed silk weaving traditions, exquisite jewellery, legendary paan culture, classical music, dance and deeply rooted artistic traditions.
Our first evening introduces us to one of these treasures — a kathak performance in the Banaras gharana style. The performance is mesmerising, with every movement carrying history, emotion and precision. It is one of those rare cultural experiences where you stop checking the time because time itself seems to have politely stepped aside. After a hearty dinner at the hotel, we finally surrender to sleep, exhausted but exhilarated.
The next morning begins with breakfast at the property, where the kitchen happily indulges our cravings with a mix of South Indian favourites and poha. It raises an important question: is the entire Gangetic plain secretly obsessed with poha? Judging by the number of variations we have encountered, the answer may well be yes. A quick shower later, we set out for a leisurely boat ride along the ghats — an experience that is almost mandatory in Varanasi and for good reason.
From the water, the city reveals another personality. The ghats stretch along the river like a living timeline, each with its own history, architecture and identity. Interestingly, the influence of different regions and communities can be seen in the design and character of various ghats, making the riverfront a fascinating reflection of India’s diversity. Of course, no exploration of Varanasi is complete without more street food. The boat ride is followed by yet another culinary adventure because apparently, the city believes sightseeing and snacking should always go together.
That evening brings one of the most unforgettable moments of the trip — a more intimate, local aarati experience away from the larger crowds. Surrounded by devotion, music and the glow of lamps reflected on the river, we feel less like visitors and more like temporary residents of this ancient rhythm. The night becomes a blur of spirituality, conversations and unexpected moments of magic.
That evening, we experience the famed Ganga aarati from a boat. Watching hundreds of lamps illuminate the river while chants echo across the ghats is nothing short of magical. It is a spectacle, but more importantly, it is a moment of connection — between people, faith, history and the river that has witnessed it all. By the time we return to the property, we are completely fulfilled and completely exhausted. Varanasi has a way of doing that. It gives generously, but it also demands your attention. Every street, sound and scent asks you to be present.
On our final morning, as we prepare to leave, the hotel arranges for local pandits to offer blessings for our journey ahead. It is a thoughtful and deeply meaningful gesture, bringing our stay to a fitting close. Leaving Kashi is not quite like leaving any other city. You carry away memories of the river, the food, the music, the chaos and the calm. You leave with the feeling that you have only scratched the surface of a place that has been telling stories for thousands of years. And jüSTa Luxé - Kashi Parampara makes the perfect base for that discovery — a luxurious haven that does not separate you from Varanasi’s spirit but gently places you right in the middle of it. Because in Kashi, the greatest luxury is not escaping the city. It is experiencing it fully.
Closest airport & railhead: Varanasi.
INR 11,000 onwards. At Assi Ghat Road.
Email: romal@newindianexpress.com
X: @elromal