Hyderabad pearls: How a landlocked city became India's pearl capital 
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How did Hyderabad pearls gain its worldwide popularity?

Hyderabad pearls have been famous for over four centuries, thanks to royal patronage, Basra's legendary trade, and generations of artisans who transformed the city into India's biggest pearl hub

DEBOLINA ROY

Hyderabad is located almost 500 kilometres away from the coastal area. However, it is known as the Pearl City of India. Given the geography, it is difficult to comprehend how this could happen. The history of Hyderabad pearls is closely linked to royal prosperity, international trade, and skilled craftsmanship.

Hyderabad pearls: A legacy built by kings and royal craftsmen

It was the Nizams who brought the best natural pearls in the world from Basra in the Persian Gulf, which at that time was the most famous pearl fishery in the world. Expert pearl craftsmen were brought by the Nizam from Basra and settled in Hyderabad.

The jewellery collection of Nizam Mir Osman Ali Khan was the largest ever seen in history. In one instance, pearl-filled buckets were rinsed out and spread all over the roof of the palace till there was not a single space left vacant. The Satlada necklace belonging to him was made up of seven rows of 465 Basra pearls. The Government of India purchased the jewellery collection of the Nizam in 1995 for around $70 million. It is now displayed in the Salar Jung Museum.

The village where pearl craftsmanship lives on

Chandanpet, which is around 10 kilometres away from Tupran, is known for one art form: hand-drilling of pearls. Almost all families have some involvement in the process. Pearls are drilled precisely, boiled for four days, soaked in hydrogen peroxide, water, and ether.

Four centuries of pearl craftsmanship still shine in Hyderabad

Then the jewels are kept in sun boxes made of mirrored glass for four or five days. They are then washed and classified according to their shape, size, and colour. High-quality pearls under ultraviolet light will show the colour of sky blue, whereas low-quality pearls will show green or yellow colour.

With the pollution of the Persian Gulf caused by oil production, the natural pearl business in Basra suffered. Artisans and traders moved to Hyderabad, making the city an even more dominant pearl centre. Now, the Hyderabad pearls include Japanese Akoya pearls, South Sea pearls, Tahitian pearls, and Chinese freshwater pearls.

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