When the monsoon hits and the city begins to feel stifling, few things soothe the soul quite like a coastal getaway — one where time slows, the air smells of salt and rain and your only agenda is to be present, but of course with a hot cup of joe. While the west coast offers several such getaways, this time, we picked the quaint cliff side town of Varkala in Kerala.
With options to arrive by rail, road or air (Thiruvananthapuram is the nearest airport), Varkala’s connectivity makes it a no-brainer for spontaneous weekenders. Whether you’re planning a solo trip, romantic retreat or a friends’ meetup, there’s accommodation to suit every kind of traveller — be it a beach-facing villa, an earthy Airbnb or the ever-social Zostel, perched right by the cliffs.
Day 1: Explore
Our first morning began with a quick check-in followed by a slow brunch at InDa Café, a charming spot offering clean, hearty fare perfect for fuelling up before a day out on the road. With rains teasing the coast and beaches under yellow alert, we opted for auto rickshaws over scooty rentals and headed straight to Jatayu Earth Centre — an underrated gem that deserves far more hype. With a swanky terminal that puts some airport lounges to shame, the centre offers cable car rides leading up to the world’s largest bird sculpture. The view from the top is breathtaking; here you can sip on your coffee while befriending monkeys. The accompanying Ram temple offers a spiritual pause, though their theatre and museum remain a work in progress.
Sunset plans?
Next, we took the scenic route to Kappil Beach and the gorgeous Backwater Road — a slender strip of tarmac flanked by water on either side was worth every minute of the short pause. As the sun dipped, we made our way to the Mangrove Forest for a golden-hour kayaking session. You can also opt for a laid-back country boat ride, to float beneath the canopy of rain-kissed leaves that drip rhythmically into the water. It’s slow travel in the purest form.
Evenings in Varkala are best enjoyed with music and ocean views. Choose between Trip is Life Café, known for its eclectic vibe and fusion food or Sandy Bar, where cocktails flow and feet often find their way to the dance floor. Or better yet — do both.
Day 2: Relax & Rewind
We kicked off our second day early with a spiritual detour — first to the centuries-old Janardanaswamy Temple and then to the peaceful Sivagiri Mutt. Both are soaked in history and offer a rare glimpse into Kerala’s spiritual legacy. Café Sarwaa, perched elegantly on the cliff, was our breakfast haven.
Between the panoramic vistas, lovingly brewed coffee and their excellent spread of sandwiches and smoothie bowls, this spot is one of Varkala’s best-kept secrets. They even have their own private beach tucked away beneath the cliffs — perfect for spreading out your beach towels and simply lazing around. If you’re still undecided on where to stay, Hotel Nidra, nestled within the same leafy premises, is an equally delightful option.
If you’ve got time (and the rains aren’t in the way), Munroe Island or Golden Island make for worthy half-day trips. But should the weather keep you close, Varkala still delivers. Sign up for a yoga session or indulge in a deeply relaxing Shirodhara treatment at Prana Spa, where Ayurvedic traditions are practised with care, professionalism and authenticity
What not to miss?
Before leaving, make time for some shopping at the North Cliff. The markets are buzzing with local crafts, breezy resort wear, handmade jewellery and souvenirs you’ll actually want to keep. Murals and street art liven up the alleyways. Murals and street art liven up the alleyways. We missed out on Black Beach, paragliding and even surfing lessons this time — monsoon casualties — but that only gives us a reason to return.
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