Kerala has long earned its title as God’s Own Country, a place where nature welcomes you with open arms and every breeze carries the scent of spice and rain-soaked earth. Towering coconut palms sway over lush landscapes and glistening sun-kissed backwaters, offering a rhythm far removed from the city’s chaos. While popular destinations like Munnar, Thekkady, Alleppey, and Kovalam often steal the spotlight, the charm of North Kerala remains a well-kept secret. However, nestled in the Kasaragod district lies Bekal, a hidden gem that offers everything you’d want in a tranquil escape. Our recent stay at The Gateway Bekal was nothing short of magical. Set along a serene river and surrounded by nature’s abundance, the luxury property beautifully blends comfort, tradition, and history.
A scenic drive away
After arriving at the closest airport, Mangalore, we hit the road for Bekal, a smooth two-hour drive that slowly unfolded into a postcard of coastal Kerala.
Early summer turned out to be a good time, while much of the country started heating up, here the lush canopy and coastal breeze offered a soothing retreat. And just as the soul began to settle into this new rhythm, we arrived at our destination — The Gateway Bekal, a 30-acre property ready to welcome us.
Stories set in stone
Stepping into the resort feels like crossing into another realm, one where tradition, luxury, and nature seamlessly intertwine. The resort beautifully captures old-world charm with a refined, contemporary elegance. As our car pulled up to the grand lobby, we were greeted by a serene water feature beneath a glass walkway where vibrant fish glided gracefully below our feet. We were welcomed in the most heartfelt way, honoured with a fragrant tulsi garland, a traditional aarti, and a gentle tika on the forehead.
Hungry, we headed straight to the Earth Pavilion, the resort’s elegant all-day dining space. The lavish buffet spread was a sensory delight featuring fluffy idlis, crisp vadas, lemon rice, baked macaroni, parsley potatoes, buttery croissants, and more.
We then made our way to our cottage, a charming sanctuary that felt less like a hotel room and more like a beautifully preserved home. A quaint gate and a lush, leafy path flanked by flowering shrubs led us into a spacious retreat, where a regal poster bed, intricately carved wooden wardrobes, and warmtoned lamps set the mood for quiet luxury.
The room opened into a serene balcony furnished with rustic cane chairs, offering peaceful views of the lawns gently leading to the backwaters. The ensuite bathroom was generously sized, featuring a rain shower and a private jacuzzi, perfect for unwinding after a long day.
The resort houses 151 elegantly curated rooms, cottages, suites, and villas where Kerala’s rich heritage meets refined moder nity. The red-and-white palette, with whitewashed structures crowned by rustic red-tiled roofs, stands out beautifully against a canvas of lush greenery. Little touches, like charming buggy rides for guests to traverse the expansive grounds, add to the experience. With serene pools, grand banquet halls, and an inviting amphitheatre, every cor ner is designed for celebration, leisure, and unforgettable memories.
Thrill in tranquillity
For those with a taste for adventure, this idyllic retreat offers more than just scenic beauty. As the golden sun dipped below the horizon, we took peaceful riverside strolls, soaking in the stillness of the moment. A paddle boating session on the shimmering backwaters brought quiet joy, with every gentle stroke gliding us deeper into nature’s calm. The real thrill, however, came with a round of archery, an engaging experience that had us aiming for the mark with growing excitement under expert guidance. We also took part in a birdwatching session. Through the lens of powerful binoculars, we spotted a stunning array of feathered wonders including Stork - billed Kingfisher, Yellow Bittern, Great and Little Egrets, White-breasted Waterhen, and the ever-charming Common Myna.
Not just that, the retreat also offers a haven of relaxation through its soothing spa experiences. From calming massages to rejuvenating Indian therapies, luxurious scrubs and body wraps to refreshing spa facials, there’s a range of indulgent treatments designed to relax, recharge, and leave you feeling utterly pampered.
Our first evening at the resort drew to a dreamy close with a magical poolside dinner under a blanket of stars. A beautifully adorned table awaited us, draped in soft candlelight, fresh blooms, and gentle night breezes.
We began with Kakkarotti, showcasing Malabar rice dumplings laced with coconut and a medley of spices. Kurumulaku kozhi followed, tender chicken simmered with local green peppercorns, bursting with warmth and depth. And then came the star, Malabar chicken biryani, layered with delicate spices, fragrant rice, and love, served with cooling raita and a medley of pickles including a sweet-savoury beetroot and date version that lingered on the tongue.
Fluffy, golden appams added that perfect touch of local authenticity, while the finale, a silky Tender coconut pudding, was as light and refreshing as the evening breeze.
Fields, ferns & some fresh air
The second day began on a vibrant note with an immersive rangoli activity where we created a stunning floral design. We then drove to Thonikadavu Greenhills, a sprawling 100-acre private estate owned by Rathnakaran Thonikadavu, fondly known as Rathna.
As we strolled through shaded paths flanked by coconut groves, rubber trees, betel nut palms, and wild forestry, the air felt different, fresher, lighter, almost healing. Rathna led us through this lush sanctuary with the ease of someone deeply rooted in the land.
We didn’t just walk; we smelled mint, tasted fresh pepper from the vine, nibbled on just-plucked cashew nuts, and touched the textured leaves, experiencing the land with every sense.
We sipped freshly brewed butterfly pea flower tea under the trees and marvelled at a traditional laterite water cave, a clever, age-old system for storing cool drinking water.
Sadhya diaries
After returning to the resort from our rejuvenating farm walk, we were treated to Sadhya, a traditional vegetarian feast of Kerala. As the banana leaf was gently laid before us, the medley of dishes began to arrive, pachadi, kichadi, olan, kalan, kootu curry, erussery, avial and the tangy inji puli, each lending its unique flavour to the feast. Accompanying these were ladles of warm rice, comforting parippu curry, aromatic sambar, and the soulsoothing rasam. Crunchy banana chips and a fiery, freshly-made mango pickle added texture and zing to every bite.
Each dish was savoured with immense joy, lovingly washed down with a glass of buttermilk and warm jeera water. And then came the grand finale — the payasam, Kerala’s iconic dessert. In a playful, cherished tradition, we were guided to mix all the desserts together with a crisp papad — a surprisingly harmonious combination that rounded off the meal in the most memorable way.
History in every brick
During our stay in Bekal, a visit to the iconic Bekal Fort was an absolute must. Standing proudly in the Kasaragod district, this is not just Kerala’s largest and most well-preserved fort, but also a breathtaking testament to coastal architecture and heritage.
Perched high above the Arabian Sea, the fort offers a sweeping panorama that blends history with natural grandeur. As we made our way up its winding paths, we were greeted by spectacular vistas, the sea stretching endlessly before us, waves rhythmically kissing the rocky shoreline, and the gentle rustle of greenery that carpets the land below. As we returned to the hotel, we were treated to a captivating Mohiniyattam performance.
Afloat in serenity
Our third and final day unfurled like a beautiful dream, a morning that began with one of the most magical highlights of our trip: a soul-soothing houseboat cruise.
We rose early and stepped aboard what didn’t quite feel like a boat at all, more like a quaint floating home, complete with inviting chairs, a well-appointed interior, and all the basic comforts. Open from all sides, the houseboat offered an unfiltered view of the tranquil waters and the lush landscapes that flanked them.
They say morning is the best time to embark on such a journey and they’re absolutely right. As the cruise set sail, golden rays of sunlight spilt onto the water, turning everything it touched into poetry. The one-hour ride through the calm backwaters of Valiyaparamba and the rippling Tejaswini river was as meditative as it was memorable.
A friendly local captain steered us through the waters with stories and insights, pointing out a tiny island and sharing fascinating tidbits along the way. We were greeted with a refreshing welcome drink. Soon after, piping hot tea and crispy pakodas were served, adding a delicious warmth to the cool breeze and gentle sway of the boat.
As we drifted past coconut groves, quiet villages, and verdant banks, something shifted, the noise of the outside world faded, and a rare, humbling peace took over.
After our serene houseboat experience, we made our way to the renowned Bekal Beach and wow, what a sight! The pristine beauty of the beach was only matched by its remarkable cleanliness, a rarity that made the experience all the more enjoyable. While words may fall short in capturing the full essence of this unforgettable trip, we’ve tried our best to share the magic we experienced. We hope you too can soak in the same beauty, tranquillity, and joy that we have.
Packages start at Rs 10,000++.
Mail ID: sakshisuresh.k@newindianexpress.com
Twitter: @kaithwas_sakshi