Why travellers are flocking to AlUla, Saudi Arabia’s archaeological wonder in the desert 
Travel

Why Saudi Arabia’s AlUla was once considered forbidden

Long associated with religious caution and ancient myths, AlUla is now at the centre of Saudi Arabia’s massive tourism transformation

Atreyee Poddar

In the northwestern deserts of Saudi Arabia, ancient tombs rise from the earth like abandoned monuments to another civilisation, lies AlUla — a place that spent centuries whispered about in caution. But now it has re-emerged as one of the Middle East’s most ambitious travel destinations.

AlUla: Forbidden city or ancient misunderstanding?

AlUla did not exist in mainstream tourism until recently. About 300 kilometres from the Red Sea coast, the region used to be an oasis settlement along old incense and trade routes that connected the Saudi with Egypt, Mesopotamia, and the Levant.

Its most famous archaeological treasure is Hegra, also known historically as Madain Salih. Often compared to Petra in the neighbouring country of Jordan, Hegra was once the southern capital of the Nabataean Kingdom — the same civilisation who carved Petra. More than 100 monumental tombs which cut directly into sandstone survived here.

In Islamic tradition, AlUla is associated with the ancient tribe of Thamud, who were mentioned in the Quran. The tribe was destroyed after they rejected Prophet Salih. For generations, some Muslims viewed the area with caution, citing hadiths in which Prophet Muhammad advised travellers to pass the area with vigilance. Over time, this evolved into rumours that the region was “cursed” or forbidden to visit.

Then came Vision 2030.

Under Crown Prince’s sweeping modernisation agenda, AlUla became a big project. The Saudi government established the Royal Commission for AlUla to restore archaeological sites and develop the hospitality. And suddenly, a region which was once associated with religious warnings is hosting music festivals, art exhibitions, wellness retreats, and high-profile tourism campaigns.

There lies Maraya Concert Hall, a gigantic mirrored structure in the desert that reflects the surrounding canyon landscape almost invisibly. It looks like science fiction dropped into an archaeological reserve.

Still, for people visiting today, the experience is surreal. Ancient tombs stand beside contemporary art installations. Bedouin heritage intersects with five-star eco-resorts. It is a country attempting to change how it wants to be seen using one of the oldest landscapes in Arabia as the stage.

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