Autumn in Asia does not arrive all at once. It starts on high ridges and in northern forests, then works its way south and downhill over several weeks. That means October is less about choosing a destination than about catching the colour at the right altitude.
This year, a little timing goes a long way.
In South Korea, Seoraksan sets the pace. The national park on the country's north-east coast is usually the first major mountain to turn, and by the end of September the higher ridges had already started to change. The peak is expected in mid-to-late October, when maples and oaks cover the granite slopes in red, orange and yellow. From here the colour moves south across the peninsula, reaching mountains such as Naejangsan in the south-west closer to November.
Japan is running late. This year's forecast from the Japan Meteorological Corporation expects the leaves to peak later than usual because of high temperatures, with Tokyo and Kyoto not at their best until late November or December. October, then, belongs to the mountains.
Kamikochi, a high valley in the Northern Japanese Alps, is one of the more reliable choices. Larches turn gold around the Azusa River, with sharp peaks behind them, and the valley closes for winter in mid-November, so the season here is short by design. Further north in Aomori, the Oirase Gorge follows a mountain stream through beech and maple forest, with waterfalls along the way. Its colours usually arrive towards the end of the month, though a warm year can nudge them later.
China offers something quite different in Inner Mongolia. In Ejin Banner, on the edge of the Gobi, forests of desert poplar turn bright gold from late September to mid-October. The trees grow along rivers in otherwise dry land, and local tradition says they live for a thousand years, stand for a thousand years after dying and take another thousand to fall. Visiting after the national holiday at the start of October, when crowds thin, is usually the better idea.
Further south in Sichuan, Jiuzhaigou combines autumn foliage with water. The valley's lakes are known for their improbable blues and greens, and from mid-October into early November the surrounding forests add reds and yellows to the reflections. It is one of the few places where the leaves almost play a supporting role.
Closer to home, Kashmir's chinar trees turn later, usually from the end of October into November, when the Mughal gardens of Srinagar fill with copper-coloured leaves. It is worth keeping in mind for anyone who misses October.
There is a simple way to plan an autumn trip in Asia. Start with altitude rather than a country. Look for the highest place you can reasonably reach, check its forecast, then follow the colour downhill. A week can make all the difference, and the same valley can look entirely different from one weekend to the next.
Autumn foliage is one of the few travel experiences that is defined by its timing. Arrive too early and the hills are still green. Arrive too late and the branches are bare. Somewhere in between is a short window that is very much worth the effort.
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