Rajasthan has spent centuries cultivating an image of ochre dunes, formidable fortresses and palaces built by maharajas with grandiose ambitions. Travel south into the Vagad region, however, and the scenery takes an unexpected turn. Cradled by the Aravalli hills, Banswara is a landscape of forested slopes, winding waterways and a vast reservoir scattered with green hillocks that appear to float on its surface. After the monsoon, the surrounding countryside bursts into lush greenery, and the city’s nickname, the City of a Hundred Islands, begins to make perfect sense.
The obvious place to begin is Mahi Bajaj Sagar Dam, where the Mahi River spreads into an immense reservoir, its surface broken by wooded hilltops that rise from the water like islands in a vast, green archipelago. Drive towards Chacha Kota, around 26 km from Banswara, and watch the landscape open into rolling green hills, quaint villages and shimmering backwaters. Nearby, Kagdi Pick-Up Weir is framed by landscaped gardens and water bodies, while Anand Sagar Lake, shaded by sacred kalpa vriksha trees and bordered by royal cenotaphs, carries traces of Banswara’s regal past.
Banswara’s history is inseparable from its Bhil heritage. At Mangarh Dham, a hilltop memorial commemorates Bhil Adivasis killed by British forces in 1913, recalling a history of resistance that deserves as much attention as the landscape. Tripura Sundari Temple, around 14–19 km from Banswara depending on the route, houses a five-foot idol of the goddess carved from black stone, with 18 arms bearing symbolic weapons and objects as she rides a tiger. Revered as a Shakti Peeth, the temple draws devotees from across the region and is a worthwhile stop for travellers interested in its religious traditions.
One can also head to Madareshwar Temple, where a shrine dedicated to Lord Shiva occupies a natural cave on a hill east of the city. The ascent and the panoramic views over Banswara make it a rewarding detour, even for visitors whose interest lies as much in the landscape as in the temple itself.
When hunger strikes, tuck into local favourites such as dal kachori, a crisp, flaky pastry packed with spiced lentils, or gota, gram-flour fritters that make for a satisfying snack. For a taste of the region’s Bhil food traditions, try dal paniya, a smoky maize flatbread cooked between leaves over a wood fire and served with lentils, chutney and buttermilk. You could also settle down to a plate of dal baati churma, a Rajasthani classic of ghee-soaked wheat dumplings, lentils and sweet, crumbled baati.
October to March brings comfortable sightseeing weather, while July to September dresses the countryside in its fullest green, though heavy rain can disrupt travel. Pack walking shoes, sunscreen, breathable clothes and a light layer for cooler evenings. Udaipur airport is roughly 165 km away, while Ratlam Junction is about 80 km away. Arrange onward transport before arriving, as a car makes exploring the scattered attractions much easier.
Email: anoushkakundu@newindianexpress.com
For more updates, join/follow our WhatsApp, Telegram and YouTube channels.