Prime Minister Narendra Modi’s gift to Cyprus First Lady highlights this traditional craftsmanship

Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi recently met up with Nikos Christodoulides, the President of Cyprus during an official diplomatic visit, during which he presented him and First Lady Philippa Karsera with a handwoven Kashmiri carpet and an Andhra-made Silver clutch. This clutch has broken the internet, putting the spotlight on the repousse technique of metal-work, a traditional handicraft technique.

What is the repousse technique of metalwork?

Digging deeper, the repousse technique comes from the word repousser which means ‘to push back’ in French. And that is exactly how the craft is carried out where tools are used to push back or work with the reverse side of the hot metal to create a design which appears to have a raised surface. Repousse work can be carried on malleable metals like copper, silver or gold with special tools and hammers, post which it can me heated and softened, and, if required, chasing can also be done on it.

The Repousse technique has time and again found mention in popular civilizations existing in Egypt, Greece and Etruscans. The Death Mask of Agamemnon or the medieval European church metalwork are all signs of how popular repousse work is globally. What makes the Indian repousse work stand out are the use of motifs like flowers, birds, embroidery patterns, temple patterns, royal patterns which are the identity of Indian art for time immemorial.  

Although several kingdoms in the past has had independent eruptions of this metal work blooming in their craftsmanship, according to archaeological findings, the Egyptian civilization is known to be having the earliest traces. But it is likely to have come to Indian across various ages notably the trade routes of the Silk Road and via the sea during barter with Egypt, Mesopotamia, Greece, and Persia; especially during the Mauryan Empire where culture flourished a lot. Greek repousse techniques may also have been introduced during the journey of Alexander the Great. Interestingly, after travelling via several routes and inter-mixing with local Indian crafts, it finally settled down in South India and Bengal where it was used prominently in temple architecture along with local traditional motifs.

Some of the special tools used in this technique include a sandbag on top of which the metal is placed which the design is hammered on to it. Repousse punches are available in different sizes and shapes. Hammers for chasing or ball - peen hammers are also used. This technique is used to make sculptures, architectural works, weaponry, religious items and jewellery or accessory; as in the case of the silver purse which was gifted by the Indian Prime Minister.

The silver clutch not only has beautiful floral designs but is also encrusted with semi-precious stones, especially one in the middle which garners subsequent attention. It is speculated that the piece was directly made by the artisans from Andhra Pradesh.

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