How to choose the right fabric for suits?
Selecting the ideal fabric for a suit is an art. It’s a delicate balance between aesthetics, comfort, and purpose. Whether you’re preparing for a business meeting, a casual event, or a formal gathering, the fabric of your suit plays a crucial role in setting the tone and feel of your outfit. Let’s dive deep into the world of suiting fabrics to help you make an informed decision. Kabir Mehra, co-founder of Herringbone & Sui, Pangolin & Suigarh, gives us some tips on selecting the right suiting fabric.
1. Understanding the Basics: Weave and Weight
Weave: Fabrics are constructed through different weaving techniques. The weave affects the texture, appearance, and breathability of the fabric.
Twill: Diagonal lines on the fabric. It’s versatile and drapes well.
Plain: Simple over-and-under weave, resulting in a smooth texture.
Herringbone: A V-shaped weave giving a zigzag appearance.
Birdseye: Small, repeating patterns that resemble tiny bird's eyes.
Weight: Fabric weight is crucial in determining its suitability for different seasons. It’s measured in grams per square metre (gsm) or ounces per square yard.
Light (under 200 gsm): Ideal for summers.
Medium (200-350 gsm): Versatile; works for most seasons.
Heavy (above 350 gsm): Perfect for colder months.
2. Popular Suiting Fabrics
Wool: The most common and versatile suiting material. It's breathable, durable, and available in various weights. Worsted wool is especially popular for its smooth texture.
Cotton: Lightweight and breathable, cotton is perfect for warmer climates. However, it might not drape as elegantly as wool and can wrinkle easily.
Linen: Perfect for hot weather, linen suits are breathable but tend to wrinkle easily. They project a casual, laid-back elegance.
Silk: Luxurious and lustrous, silk suits are often reserved for special occasions due to their sheen and delicate nature.
Cashmere: Renowned for its softness, cashmere suits are luxurious but can be more fragile than wool or cotton.
Synthetic Fabrics: Materials like polyester can be more affordable and wrinkle-resistant but are often less breathable than natural fibres.
3. Patterns and Colours
Consider where you'll wear the suit. For business settings, solid colours like navy, grey, and black are timeless. Pinstripes can be suitable for corporate environments, while bolder patterns like checks might be reserved for more casual occasions.
4. Seasonal Considerations
For summer, opt for lightweight, breathable fabrics like tropical wool, cotton, or linen. For winter, heavier wool or wool-blend suits will keep you warm. Flannel, though warm, offers a textured, soft finish perfect for the colder months.
5. Comfort and Durability
If you’re investing in an everyday suit, prioritise durability. Heavier wools and blends tend to last longer. For occasional wear, you might prioritise comfort or luxury, leaning towards cashmere or silk.
6. Sustainability
In the modern era, ethical considerations matter. Organic cotton, bamboo fabric, and responsibly sourced wool can be excellent choices for the environmentally conscious individual.
Choosing the right fabric for your suit is a journey of understanding your personal style, comfort, and the purpose of the suit. By arming yourself with knowledge about different fabrics, their characteristics, and their ideal settings, you ensure that you not only look impeccable but also feel confident and comfortable in your sartorial choice.