In 1925, French modernist designer Coco Chanel did something revolutionary for her time: she put the initials of her name—two interlocking Cs—on her clothing. As logomania entered the luxury lexicon, branded monograms fuelled the aesthetic trope that only got bigger and bolder. Cut to 2023. Breaking through the noise of ‘loud and proud’ brand tags, logo-wearing has become discrete, making pop culture’s loudest fashion statement: quiet luxury. Here money doesn’t talk, it whispers elegance and timelessness. Think low-key sophistication of actor Saif Ali Khan’s wardrobe choices, actor Rahul Khanna’s elevated basics and streamlined silhouettes, and designer Raghavendra Rathore’s subtle sophistication passed on to him by his cultural inheritance.
Having come into existence for the first time since the Great Depression, the stealth-wealth aesthetic reflects the economic and social turbulence of today’s times where low-key, pared-back sartorial picks make perfect sense. But that’s just the beginning of what lies on the style turf this year. From hybridised dressing to casualisation of fashion, from Scandi minimalism to Normi lux, it’s all about simplicity, usability and sustainability. Beauty, on the other hand, is riding the wave of personalisation and uninhibited experimentation. Russian doll lips, bubble gloss nails, cloud makeup, skin smoothies, micro bobs and sassy wigs are ruling the roost. To help you stay ahead of the curve, here’s everything you need to nail the swish summer look.
Drapery Dresses, Pretty Pleats
If Saint Laurent and Versace’s summer 2023 trends are anything to go by, hard-edged drapery dresses and pleats are back with vengeance. “Popping up in asymmetrical or straight styles, gown-style dresses, shirtdresses and pinafores in opaque and sheer materials have dominated runway fashion this season,” says Mumbai designer Nivedita, adding what’s not to be missed are skirt suits in graphic dots, pleated cord-sets with pop colours, and fringed dresses in floral prints and rainbow stripes. “Get an asymmetric long plissé draped dress or an off-shoulder pleated midi in crinkled fabric, a pearl embellished belt, rose-gold huggie earrings and a wristlet to complete the look,” she says.
Hello to Henleys
First worn as an undervest by labourers during the industrial revolution, Henleys have a pride of place in a man’s wardrobe today. This collarless shirt with a buttoning placket, similar to a collarless polo shirt, is loved for its versatility as it can be paired with jeans, chinos, loungewear pyjamas, and even boxers. “Henleys is the perfect dawn-to-dusk outfit. Wear it by itself or layer it with an open-button shirt, denim jacket or linen blazer. My top tip is to pick a nautical-striped Henley and wear it in a half-tuck style over a pair of jeans and with a blazer,” says Delhi-based couturier Varun Bahl.
Normie, the New Normal
After being the muse for fashion labels such as Gucci, Proenza Schouler and Bottega Veneta this season, normie dressing is making a splash for its luxurious minimalism. “It’s practical fashion sans frills,” says Delhi-based stylist Kalki Sen. Own the trend by going for sharp silhouettes that can be styled with minimum effort. “A pleated jumpsuit in a solid colour, an embroidered bustier, a pair of wide-leg pants, a two-piece suit, a dress with a front cutout at the waist, a dress skirt with lace detailing, simple pintex button-downs, white sneakers or pastels, camel and beige loafers, are all hallmarks of normie style,” she says.
Sheer Delight
From the see-through halter dress worn by singer-actor Ciara for Vanity Fair Oscar Party 2023 to Lady Gaga’s Versace gown for the same event, sheer is sizzling on the fashion hot plate. While risqué dressing may not be for everyone, you can still look up to the minute by styling it right. “Wear a balloon dress over a sheer midi skirt and a lace bustier for a hyper-feminine expression. Make heads turn with a semi-sheer, voile corset tucked into a ruched skirt. A sheer cami with a button-down organza shirt with fitted pants makes for a smart evening outfit. My favourite go-to look though is a hyacinth midi sheer dress worn over a bodysuit,” says Delhi-based stylist Rupali Gupta.
Downplay the Drama
The Nordics are trendsetters and Scandi chic their fashion language. Minimalistic and functional, it is characterised by high-quality fabrics along with texture, layering and volume. “Drawing on the style aesthetics of brands such as Loro Piana, Brunello Cucinelli, The Row and Bodice or those closer home like Rajesh Pratap Singh, Shahab Durazi and Atsu, Scandi wardrobe makes heads turn with its bougie simplicity,” says stylist and fashion entrepreneur Pernia Qureshi. “Keep it simple: no bold patterns or prints, and absolutely no shimmer or shine. A malt-coloured halter-neck shirt tucked into wide-legged jeans with almond-hued accessories is a great look to go for. A printed skirt with a plain top and platform heels in earthy colours with some stackable wrist jewellery is Scandi at its best,” she says. Lagenlook is the more inclusive off-shoot of the style with lots of layering. Think flowy asymmetrical pieces that flatter all body types. “Style a long-hitched straight skirt with a ruffled shirt and a scarf, paired with oversized accessories. A godet skirt with a loose crop top and linen Peter Pan unbuttoned collar blouse is my go-to Lagenlook,” says Gupta.
APPAREL
Quiet is the New Loud
Fuelled by shows like Succession and brands such as Hermès, Armani, Loro Piana, The Row, Chloé, Saint Laurent and Chanel, quiet luxury hints at “opulence by way of superb materials, great craftsmanship and unobtrusive logos”, says Delhi-based luxury fashion designer Rahul Mishra. While getting the real deal will set you back by a small fortune, you can hack your way into getting the Succession-stealth wealth look. “First things first: invest in fewer but higher-quality pieces. Look for a family heirloom, perhaps your grandmother’s broach, antique hair accessory, an old watch or a piece of jewellery to add yesteryear charm to your outfit,” he says.
Next, get some structured clothing for that put-together look. “Angular cuts, sharply stitched yokes and pockets are simple ways of achieving it. Keep the colour palette neutral to ring that old-money vibe,” says Masoom Minawala, global fashion influencer and entrepreneur, based in Dubai. Not to mention, choose timelessness over trends. “Think elevated basics, a pair of vintage sunglasses, relaxed straight denims, a white T-shirt and three-toned Cartier bangles (ask your jeweller to replicate the design for a third of the cost). It is a classic quiet-luxury look for summer,” says Mumbai-based digital content creator Muskan Chanchlani. Effortless chic is what is to be kept in mind, according to global content creator, Niharika NM. “If you don’t know where to start, just get some staples like an oversized poplin buttoned-up shirt in an earthy tone, clean-lined sheer skirt, linen suit vest, sharp pencil dress, masterfully tailored trousers, simple textured totes and loafers in beige or camel, and style them with muted accessories. No need to break the bank for the look. You’ll find the pieces at H&M, Zara, Uniqlo and Mango for a fraction of the price,” says Mumbai-based NM.
Pull Out That Pencil Skirt
The modest knee-length dress is having a resurgence, and a bold one at that. Typically worn to the office, the skirt has today become a powerful statement of edgy fashion. “A low-waist one is particularly popular these days, along with the long column denim skirt,” says Sen. Be on top of the trend by getting a patent leather skirt with a rear slit and wearing it with an oversized T-shirt. Plaids are huge too and are best paired with bralettes in net and silk. Pinstriped wrap-style pencil skirts with a bustier top or a denim pencil skirt with an asymmetrical hem and a back-knot styled with a smock-frock are 21st-century matches made in heaven. For a formal look, Saint Laurent’s skirt-suit, reminiscent of the 80s’ structured tailoring, is a superior choice. Equestrian-style pencil skirt when worn with white sneakers or Mary Janes will keep you on top of the trend,” says the stylist, adding, “Colours such as olive green, red, raspberry blush, and the evergreen black and white are in vogue.”
Find Your Metallic Match
At a time when bling has saturated the market, style sleuths are putting their money on muted metallic bags. “Downplayed purses such as the Telfar small copper shopping bag for $245 or the Behno Ina mini crossbody for $450 make a subtle splash in your handbag collection,” says Mumbai-based stylist Pamella Philipose, adding, “The only thing to keep in mind is quality, as metallics can quickly turn the look from chic to cheap.” Owning a la mode pieces of the season such as the Anya Hindmarch crisp packet metal clutch priced at $1,695 or the Prada metallic leather tote bag ($2,600) will make a dent in your pocket, but you can still make the most of the trend with alternatives such as the cult Gaia Marjani metallic top handle bag for Rs 35,999, Rebecca Minkoff ruched clutch for Rs 11,000 or Steve Madden metallic sling bag for Rs 11,999,” says Philipose.
MAKEUP
Soft Power
There’s no need for filters when you can get that soft, ‘I just got out of the shower’ look with makeup. With its iridescent appearance (think Mira Rajput Kapoor’s flawless look), cloud skin makeup gives you that lit-from-within glow. “To achieve it, follow a three-step process. First, make sure your skin is moisturised. Second, apply a blurring primer topped with a matte foundation. Third, bake your powder (apply a large amount of translucent powder under the eyes and T zone and leave it for a few seconds, brushing it off with a light hand). What you’ve got is a cloud-like softness,” says Mamta Naik, Associate Vice President, Product Development, at SUGAR Cosmetics. “Especially post-pandemic, those who have to show up online regularly, love this technique for the freshness it adds to a pale face made paler because of the blue light emanating from the screen,” says Mumbai-based Naik.
Art of Artificial
When US-based visual artist and writer Deshawn Thomas asked AI to choose her makeup, the results were fascinating. She used Dream by Wombo, a popular AI app that creates stunning artwork, including makeup. Of the five looks she tried, her favourite was the Cottagecore Fairy, for which the prompt went like this: “Cottagecore makeup look on a beautiful African American woman, brown skin, freckles, whimsical, iridescent, floral, glitter, unique, fairies, colourful, ethereal, digital painting, colourful mascara, MUA.” The result was “colourful, sparkly and ornate,” she wrote in an article for a news portal. Closer home, Versha Baldodia, a digital creator from Delhi, asked ChatGPT to create a look. “The accuracy of instructions surprised me. It gave me step-by-step process and product recommendations based on my skin type and also what to avoid,” says Baldodia, who also recommends Snapchat’s new chatbot and YouCam Tutorial. “To get the most out of the bot, give it clear instructions. For instance, do you want a daytime or night-time look? High-glam or low-key? Colour preferences? Glossy or mattified? You can give prompts like ‘I want the Kim K makeup look’ ‘Barbie-like makeup’, ‘skin-like makeup’, or ‘makeup for dark/light/medium/textured skin,” she says.
NAILS
Brush with Blush
What gloss is for the lips, blush is for the nails. With a medium-bright tone of pink, blush nails have received over 16 million views on TikTok, making the soft-glam look one of the hottest this summer. “Apply a coat of sheer nail polish in nude tones such as tangerine, baby pink, rose quartz, or bubblegum pink. Let it dry. Next, grab a make-up sponge and blot a colour of your choice (a darker one) and let it diffuse. Seal with a glossy top coat,” says Delhi-based nail stylist Simar Sukhija, who believes it looks best on medium to short nails, preferably in a round shape.
For those who fancy soft, jelly-like nails, bolder variations of squiggly nails are in vogue. From rainbow swirls to monochrome waves and retro tips, there’s a lot to choose from. “Squiggly nails became popular during the pandemic when nail salons shut and people wanted to try something quirky without too much effort,” says Sukhija. Nails are also serving up summer freshness with recreations of cherries, melons, bananas and berries. From fruits to famous people, the possibilities are endless. Says Delhi-based choreographer Shraddha Seth, who got the face of her role model, Marilyn Monroe, crafted on her nails: “Nails are a statement of purpose. I know people who’ve got faces of their parents, pop stars and political leaders painted.”
The crowd-pleaser of the year though is bubble gloss nails. In soft sheer pink, milky white, light tope and translucent beige, they are the most faddy. “Pre-polish nail care is crucial. Wash your hands with soapy water to soften the cuticles. Push them back, cut and shape your nails, buff your ridges and then apply a thin base coat of a sheer nail colour of your choice (Sally Hansen’s Nirvana, O.P.I’s Bubble Bath and Nykaa’s Sugar n Spice 235 are great colours to start with). Finish it with an extra glossy top coat,” says Sheena Malhotra, a nail artist based in Delhi.
LIPS
Pout Perfect
The pout gets a plump-up with the Russian lip filler, a derivative of the Russian doll lip-enhancement method, where lips are injected to achieve height. Russian fillers are a fuller version of the same, but this one gives a Matryoshka doll-like pout. “Their demand has more than doubled in the last two years,” says Dhaval Parek, a Mumbai-based cosmetic surgeon. “The focus earlier was on voluptuous lips, but now it’s on a well-defined Cupid’s bow and a broader lip border. In this method, injections are administered vertically rather than horizontally, giving a lifting effect and a shorter philtrum (the area between the base of the nose and the lip),” says Parek.
SKINCARE
For Smoothie Glow
It starts with skincare and ends with makeup. In between is a glow-filter-like skin smoothie. Loved for its ultra-hydrating, doughnut-like radiance, the hack can be achieved with just a few products. “Begin by rubbing petroleum jelly on the face, followed by facial oil. Let it absorb. Then layer with a hydrating serum, following up with a thick cream. Now, use a pore-blurring illuminating primer to soften the look. Add a generous amount of strobe cream and begin tantouring (contouring and tanning, using a bronzer). The last step is to use a dewy setting spray,” says Rana.
WRISTWEAR
Watch Out
If trend catchers from Watches & Wonders 2023, the finest trade fair in luxury watchmaking, are anything to go by, green is reigning supreme. From enamelled cases to bejewelled rhinestones, dials and off-beat strap fitting, the colour makes the wrist pieces snazzy and off-beat. “For a Succession-like polished look, go for the Tissot PRX Quartz Mint with a pastel mint-green dial, the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona in 18kt yellow gold with a green dial, the Versace Greca logo timepiece or Omega’s Speedmaster Moonwatch,” says Delhi-based horologist Nishant Sharma, who recently purchased the Greca priced at Rs 1,10,000 after spending close to a year looking for the right shade—between basil and seaweed. Sharma found it in the Versace pine green chronograph. “Traditionally, timepieces have been black or blue, but since the pandemic, green has emerged as a popular hue, perhaps with a gravitation towards biophilic elements,” he says.
Keeping up with the understated movement are also no-logo haute horlogerie pieces, most of which are limited edition. “In its true essence, a quiet luxury chronograph cannot be bought; it’s inherited,” says Delhi-based celebrity stylist Sanjana Batra, looking down at her Cartier Panthere priced at Rs 3,93,000, given to her by her mother many years ago. But waiting for one to be passed down could take time, so shop the look by keeping a few things in mind, like “understated design, textured or plain strap and technical prowess”, says the founder of Jaipur Watch Company, Gaurav Mehta, who believes owning these pieces is not only the prerogative of the upper crust of society, but absolutely anyone. The watch connoisseur suggests pocket-friendly alternatives such as Citizen quartz watch white dial (Rs 12,100), Kings Wristwear II (Rs 35,000), Orient Diver’s Jumbo (Rs 19,636) and Bulova gold plated classic quartz watch (Rs 35,000).
FOOTWEAR
Hybrid is Having a Moment
Tying two styles together, sneaker boots recently snuck into the men’s summer closet. Popularised by Nike, Timberland, Vans, Puma and Converse, the new category has become a ubiquitous choice this season. “The hybrid footwear maximises the comfort of a sneaker while providing the height and protection of boots. Utilitarian and high-performing, these are good for both regular and rugged use,” says Dev Raiyani, a sneakerhead and lifestyle digital creator from Mumbai, who believes sneaker boots are best worn with cargo pants, camouflage clothing or a light-washed chambray shirt.
Mesh Flats Fly High
From minimalistic to runway chic, mesh flats are all the rage. “High on style and comfort, ruched mesh flats with rhinestones can trick up a spartan outfit, while scrunched ones with a leather buckle make for modish business casual,” says Gupta. Ballet flats too are back with finishes in faux leather, suede and satin. “Swap the bow ballets with soft-strapped satin ones in sorbet colours. Slip into box-toe ballerinas with knee-length socks for an idiosyncratic statement. Tie-around canvas ballet flats worn with city shorts or paper-bag-waist slacks are edgy too,” says Mumbai-LA-based footwear designer Roshan Ray.
HAIR
Win Big with Wigs
From black to bold, short to long and straight to wavy in seconds, wigs are winging the modern-day look. Mumbai-based actor and founder of Nish Hair, Parul Gulati, who’s a champion of popular human hair wigs, says, “Natural hair protection has become a big area of concern, especially after the pandemic, with people prioritising hair care like never before. Hair shedding emerged as one of the biggest side-effects of Covid, and in some cases led to permanent damage to hair follicles.” There are lots of options to choose from, but the chart-toppers are the lob, chin-length wigs with bangs, mod pixie cuts and blowed-out layers. “Add hits of lavender, ruby red and cinnamon-coloured extensions and an add-on ponytail, and you’ve got yourself an instant makeover. Bangs and hair toppers are all the rage too,” she says.
Band it, Queen
Stylish and edgy, bandanas are Gen Z’s newest obsession. The unassuming piece of square cloth in traditional paisley motifs, vibrant pops of colour, or perhaps the classic are top sells this summer. “The bun and ponytail are so yesterday. Tie a bandana for that cool summer look. If in the mood for something snazzy, get some hand-crafted turbans to channelise the 70s’ disco-glam. You can style your outfit with a tie-dyed turban or an embellished or metallic bandana,” says Priyanka Sanghi, founder and CEO of Delhi-based Hair Drama Co.
Bring on the Bob
Taking things from casual to dressy in minutes, is one of the world’s oldest haircuts—the bob. “Jump onto the bandwagon with the de rigueur bob styles of 2023, such as sliced, razor cut bubble and the sassy micro bob. The most-requested one till now has been the inverted bob,” says Gurugram-based hair stylist Raunak Mehta.
From loud to quiet luxury, baroque to basic styling, bold to barely there makeup, 2023 has been a year of shifts. Here are outfit ideas, skin, hair and nail inspirations worth warming up to this summer.