Ever since Andrea Pompilio unveiled his inaugural Fall/Winter line for Onitsuka Tiger at Milan Fashion Week in 2021, the trajectory of the brand has been nothing short of meteoric. Born in Italy, Andrea grew up in a highly creative environment — his father was an architect, his mother a painter, and his grandmother ran a boutique. He had a dream to be a fashion designer when he was a child and graduated from Pesaro’s Art Institute and then moved to Milan to study at Istituto Marangoni, where he obtained the fashion design master’s degree. After gaining experience with various renowned brands, he presented his signature brand in AW 2011. Then, after collaborating with Onitsuka Tiger, Andrea became its creative director and has been in this position ever since. Transforming a cherished Japanese cult brand into an unmissable Milan Fashion Week staple, he has not only introduced the allure of an accessible lifestyle brand to one of the most luxurious platforms in fashion but has also redefined the brand’s identity with his unique vision.
Under Andrea’s creative direction, Onitsuka Tiger transcends its sports luxe origins, emerging as an indispensable addition to the contemporary wardrobe. He masterfully blends streetwear, cultural resonance, luxury, and athletic elements, establishing a new paradigm of cool and relevance in fashion.
This innovative approach is vividly reflected in the brand’s Autumn/Winter 2024 collection, unveiled at the Milan Fashion Week under the Urban Winter theme. The collection, a vibrant homage to the brand’s Japanese roots, showcased flared trousers and overcoats that capture Onitsuka Tiger’s audacious spirit, seamlessly merging fashion with sports, and tradition with modernity.
Andrea reimagines the brand’s legacy, steering it towards a future where it continues to break boundaries and redefine the essence of cool.
As the first show of the 75th anniversary year of the brand, 49 looks were presented in association with the brand’s founding year of 1949.
Tokyo inspired
Taking us through the design process of the collection, Andrea tell us that the AW collection is rather simple, with the main features being sequins and canvas. “For me, sequins are like Tokyo’s nocturnal rain, with everything sparkling and bright. We also have a tonne of new shapes, like the Zebra shape, which is our season-defining shape for long coats, dresses, T-shirts and two-pocket jackets. At the heart of the collection is the iconic yellow palette, enriched with shades of metropolitan grey, black, beige, and hazelnut, evoking the essence of urban winter landscapes. The unique wet coating finish on the apparel brings to mind the sudden thunderstorms characteristic of Tokyo, adding a layer of depth and texture to the collection,” he explains.
He shares that many of the designs and styles have a strong, albeit quite unrelated connection to the sports industry. For example, he notes, “a cotton sweatshirt was transformed into a cashmere outerwear piece in our collection. The double cashmere hoodie suggests a new layering concept as an outerwear piece worn over matching coats or blouses. Every single item of athleisure is evolving to a far greater degree in its unique way. The unique techniques are used to shape the silhouette with a new twist throughout the entire collection. The coats, jackets, and peacoats emphasise the contrast between wide shoulders and a narrow waist with tailoring details such as tube padding and ribbing.”
For men, there are wide pants in extra-long or ankle-cut chino and five-pocket style, while for women, there are stretchy slim-fit or oversized trousers. Micro skirts with flowing silhouettes and silk panel dresses with shiny and matte paillettes embroidery are paired with wool socks and new creepers. The collection also features innovative hybrid shoes that combine rubber soles and trekking boots, as well as a double bag made of synthetic leather with an urban shoulder strap.
Accent pieces
Defining the essence of the brand’s aesthetic for the season, Andrea handpicks a few key pieces from the collection. “The collection’s accent is a rib-knitted zip-neck wool wear inspired by our most iconic track top. It can be worn as a modern scarf or an extreme crop top, making it our celebratory piece. The eye-catching yellow uniforms and the Mexico 66 SD without the signature stripes are specially designed to pay homage to the movie Kill Bill, expressing the brand’s evolution that interprets heritage in a modern way,” he says.
A highlight of the collection is the debut of the first V-neck decollete with chunky high heels, designed for comfort and slip resistance.
Modest, simple, aesthetic
“We create sports-inspired fashion in the pursuit of ultimate comfort and innovative design. The style symbolises our respect for our heritage and our admiration for refined and contemporary creative styles. Innovative technologies in our products lie where the eyes cannot see. Our full line of products is one-of-a-kind from head to toe. They come to life through craftsmanship that obsesses over quality and detail. We answer the cravings of those who look for a ‘new luxury’,” says Andrea.
The Japanese brand had a well-defined goal while designing this new collection — improve the basics while keeping its distinctive yellow accents and come up with a modest, simple aesthetic collection. “We make great efforts to pay close attention to details, constantly strive for greater elegance, and combine sophistication with innovation. What makes us unique is our seasonal introduction of a limited collection within a variety of hues and shapes,” he elaborates.
Comfort first
Giving us a hint about where the brand’s design direction is headed, Andrea adds, “Every season will bring in new hues and forms, but the overall look will be relatively straightforward with an exquisite pattern at the back. It may be voluminous in the winter and short in the summer based on seasonal variations in shape and proportion, but the overall style will always be comfort first.”
Price on request. Available online.
manuvipin@newindianexpress.com
