Luxury menswear designer Surbhi Pansari opens up about her latest collection
When discussing men’s fashion, Kolkata-based designer Surbhi Pansari, is undoubtedly one of the leading names. Her sense of aesthetics and design has given many timeless collections that are perfect for all occasions. While she comes up with her latest collection – The World of Chivalry- inspired by mighty leaders of the world, we have a hearty chat with her. At the onset, she mentions how this is the perfect collection as a lead to the winter wedding season, “This grand wedding season is the best occasion to wear our traditional outfits in vibrant hues and matching accessories. Keeping in mind our cultural festivities and mood set-ups at different times, we bring to you a range of subtle attires for morning celebrations and bling pieces for the evening fun.”
Excerpts from the conversation:
What inspired the World of Chivalry Collection?
History is full of incredible ancient warriors from all corners of the World. Although warrior culture differed in minor ways depending on location, these greatest ancient warriors had a few things in common. They terrorised, conquered, and shaped the ancient world. They inspire awe and respect in their people and fear in those that they conquer. The beauty and creativity of our new collection is about these great ancient warriors. Each ensemble has craftsmanship and attention to detail, which accentuate the timeless charm of costumes. The ensembles whisper stories of grace and tradition.
What motifs have you drawn inspiration from?
The inspirations behind the motifs are colourful tapestry of bravery and tradition with a little magic. Knights were known for their masterful skills with horses, which can be seen as a major motif in most of the outfits. A knight’s code of conduct included: honour, sacrifice, faithfulness, courage and courtesy toward women. The nobles and elite warriors wore a coat of mail called a kavacha. They wore a kind of veil made of chain mail over the face and carried a round steel shield called dhal. The carefully curated ensemble, encapsulates the essence of Rajput sartorial splendour. Rajput men often opt for intricately embroidered or contrasting pocket squares, showcasing their attention to detail. The small but impactful pieces of fabric, add a touch of finesse to the ensemble.
What kind of ensembles can one see in the collection?
The garments have distinctive surface ornamentation with threads. There are spartan, shield and knight motif surface detail highlights with bugle beads, zari and thread detailing. Midnight blue, our signature shade with pastels and neutrals along with bright vibrant colours bring out the glorious as well as strong characters of the soldiers. The garments look astute in antique gold embroidery. Pieces that define the collection include Jodhpuri coats, blazers, bandhgala, jackets and Kurtas.
How is royalty reflected in fashion today?
Royal ensembles are known for their timeless elegance, intricate craftsmanship, and opulent fabrics. People today don’t just choose an outfit for their special occasions but also keenly look into the quality of the garments. It is not just an outfit but a legacy that might be passed down through generations. People also tend to be inclined towards home-grown natural fabrics and craftsmanship and preserving their culture.
What accessories work best with the collection?
A beautiful look is a mélange of a perfectly fit garment and the right accessories. To create such statement looks with this collection one can use coordinating brooches for subtle garments. One can pair up safas with bandhgalas and add a kilangi to it to create panache. Printed safas with jacket kurta sets adds element to one’s look. And a perfect pair of embroidered jooti would just complete the look.
Three tips for grooms and best men for this wedding season.
When curating looks for the wedding, there are a lot of factors that come into play.
Colour, embroidery, cuts and patterns, embellishments, detailing and other outfits paired with it. It’s highly important to consider the grooms taste and personality before making a choice. So browse a lot from a select colour palate and proceed further. Shortlist a few and go ahead.
When you are sure of the outfits try the whole look with all the details which add royalty to the ensemble. We would recommend trying out two looks and doing a mix and match if required, and then finalise.
Next comes the fitting. So, ensure to get the measurement done correctly. And it’s always important to feel happy in what you wear.
What does your next collection look like?
We have already started working on the upcoming summer collection. There will be new cuts, prints and elements of surprise.
