Outfit from SS 24 Enzym collection; (R) Amit Aggarwal
Outfit from SS 24 Enzym collection; (R) Amit Aggarwal

My aim is to create a magical realm: Amit Aggarwal

As Amit Aggarwal completes 12 years in the industry, we caught up with the couturier who takes inspiration from science and technology. We learn that he is on a breathtaking exploration of materials and form, which will be manifested in his upcoming collection featuring upcycled vintage textiles, glitter tubing polymer, and galactic surface rubber

Amit Aggarwal, a visionary in the fashion industry, stands as a testament to the fusion of art and engineering. As he completes 12 years in the industry, he continues to push the boundaries of design, drawing profound inspiration from the intricate patterns of science, the organic beauty of nature, and the structural elegance of architecture. As he celebrates this milestone, the designer embarks on an innovative journey with his latest collection, which promises to be a breathtaking exploration of materials and form. This new line will feature upcycled vintage textiles, glitter tubing polymer, and galactic surface rubber, showcasing his commitment to sustainability while maintaining his avant-garde aesthetic.

Outfit from SS 24 Enzym collection; (R) Amit Aggarwal
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Defying clichés

His creations showcase meticulous craftsmanship, luxurious textures, a harmonious interplay of vibrant colours and designs that celebrate the inherent beauty of the human form. No wonder he is garnering praise and a dedicated global fanbase. Amit’s fashion universe defies clichés, with mood boards and campaigns that draw inspiration not from myths and legends but from the realms of science, nature, and architecture. His design language is a rule governed by these modern muses. The narrative is as dynamic and fluid as his garments, rooted in the present yet constantly redefining the possibilities of the future by reshaping the past. His luminous outfits seamlessly blend opposing qualities, such as opacity and transparency, structure and fluidity, creating garments that evolve with light and movement. He emphasises that consumers are not just buyers but participants in an experiential journey.  

Engineering in design

Coming from a family of engineers, scientists and interior designers have, indeed, shaped his approach to fashion design over the years. “Raised in Mumbai, which I consider as a city of paradoxes, I first experienced the power of creation at the age of five. I’ll tell you a little story — one day, my mother opened the cupboard and I accidentally saw a beautiful piece of golden textile peeking out. It was her wedding sari and she had never worn it since. To my surprise, she had embroidered a glowing mustard yellow mushroom pattern with a sequin of gota in a sunburst motif. Bright, colourful, metallic — the iconography of my mother’s wedding sari and growing up around my father’s mathematical blueprints from his engineering workshop seared themselves into my consciousness. This left a deep impression on how I would perceive the irreversible power of design to move us between the stitches of time,” he recollects.

Model wearing gown from Amit Aggarwal’s Spring/Summer ’24 couture collection, Enzym
Model wearing gown from Amit Aggarwal’s Spring/Summer ’24 couture collection, Enzym

Weaving stories

His collections over the years have consistently incorporated concepts related to marine life, amorphous creatures, and bio-mimicry. And the designer shares that the ideas are a reflection of his early life. “My upbringing heavily influenced me. Our work resonates with how we are as living beings—strong, with structure — yet amorphous in nature. We have our hopes and dreams, but we also want to be rooted. It is the ideology of contrasts. I want to explore this incongruity by creating clothes that react well to all elements — survive underwater and in conditions of extreme heat or windy landscapes,” elaborates  the designer.

Innovation is key

Innovation has always been at the core of all his collections over the years. “I believe in celebrating craftsmanship, artisanal treatment, textural richness and tactile allure through our designs. So there are lehengas crafted from metallic polymer strips corded and stitched with hand-done embroideries. Delicate tulle and mesh reimagined in structured forms for belted gowns, while knee-length dresses are finished with hand-painted details that imitate puddle pour art. My aim is to create a magical realm in which imagination and reality are entwined,” says Amit.

The making of Enzym
The making of Enzym

AI as muse

He sees technology not as a threat but an aid to human creativity in fashion design. He believes that the essence of human creativity or evolution is irreplaceable. “I consider AI as a muse, not a threat. It inspires me to explore uncharted territories, experiment with unconventional materials, and redefine the very essence of fashion. I believe artificial intelligence is a catalyst that empowers designers to break free from the ordinary and embrace a future where creativity knows no bounds. In embracing the potential of AI, we embark on a journey to explore the uncharted territories of creativity and design, enriching the human experience rather than diminishing it,” he explains.

Shobhita Dhulipala in Amit Aggarwal SS 24 collection
Shobhita Dhulipala in Amit Aggarwal SS 24 collection

Clothing is about ‘you’

Amit believes that clothes are a reflection of an individual’s personality. So how does he challenge balancing his distinct vision with the personal styles of the clientele? “We always want our designs to become an extension of our consumer’s individuality and never overpower who they are as individuals. I always tell the consumer that it has less to do with the clothing but more about ‘you’. So whichever customer, grooms or brides, I constantly make them believe that outfits should bring the attention to your personality. For me, the idea is to create an exquisite design that is a perfect blend of my vision and style along with the client’s expectations and preferences,” he shares.

Model wearing gown from Amit Aggarwal’s Spring/Summer ’24 couture collection, Enzym
Model wearing gown from Amit Aggarwal’s Spring/Summer ’24 couture collection, Enzym

According to Amit, the fashion landscape is undergoing a seismic shift, with revolutionary material innovations to consumer experience driven by artificial intelligence. And the digital age is redrawing the synergy between fashion and technology and is rewiring the entire ethos of design and consumption patterns.

Contemplation and reflection

Giving us a sneak peek into his upcoming collection, the ace designer says, “With our next collection we are delving into the intricacies of human existence, particularly the interplay between individual perception and collective experience. We are inherently social beings, and our interactions with others shape our identities and experiences. However, this can lead to both harmony and conflict.”

The materials for expression for the next collection are quite unique and includes upcycled vintage textiles, glitter tubing, polymer with a galactic surface, rubber etc. “We are looking at a blend of the old and the new, the familiar and the otherworldly. This juxtaposition mirrors the complexity of human existence, where tradition and innovation, familiarity and novelty, often intersect. Overall, our exploration will touch upon themes of identity, connection, and transformation, all within the context of time and human experience. It’s a rich tapestry of ideas that invites contemplation and reflection,” he signs off.

Fluid it flows

Amit Aggarwal’s Spring/Summer ’24 couture collection, Enzym, is a fine blend of structure and fluidity, perfectly embodied in these gowns. The use of blush pink and metallic hues evoking pearls creates a sense of ethereal beauty, while the incorporation of micro pleats adds texture and dimension, reflecting the brand’s signature structured aesthetic.

 Amit Aggarwal’s Spring/Summer ’24 couture collection, Enzym
Amit Aggarwal’s Spring/Summer ’24 couture collection, Enzym
Outfit from SS 24 Enzym collection; (R) Amit Aggarwal
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It’s fascinating how each piece in the collection showcases the designers mastery of metallics and intricate pleating techniques. The addition of three-dimensional corded forms, glass beads, and lamina scales elevates the designs to a whole new level of artistry. The organic colour palette, with shades inspired by elements of nature like pearl, shell, sand, and steel, further enhances the collection’s cohesive narrative. It is a captivating showcase of craftsmanship and creativity.

Enzym appears to push the boundaries of his previous work by introducing new elements while still maintaining the brand’s core aesthetic. The collection represents a natural evolution of his design philosophy, incorporating new techniques and concepts while staying true to the brand’s essence.

manuvipin@newindianexpress.com

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