Fashion designer Nachiket Barve’s love for everything fashionable is visible in the pieces he makes, the designs he chooses, the colours he adds and the style they evoke. As someone who is known for challenging pre-existing norms and making fashion relevant to women irrespective of race, age, size or body type, Nachiket has proved his philosophy once again with his latest collection La Dolce Vita, which was recently launched at the Blenders Pride Glassware Fashion NXT Festival in Bhubaneswar, where we got a chance to talk to the designer.
What is the idea behind La Dolce Vita?
I’ve always been inspired by bold contemporary renditions of Indian craft, so you’ll see a lot of my signature bold elements in this collection. There is a lot of very intricate appliqué and cutwork, which is very time-consuming, highly specialised and has to be done by teams which have been trained for years to do this. You’ll also see a very extensive menswear capsule, which we’re doing for the first time.
So, this collection is different because of the menswear capsule?
I don’t think we’ve ever gone so monochromatic and showcase an extensive menswear capsule. There’s a more gender fluid kind of approach to both menswear and womenswear. This collection is bolder. There is more of a silhouette innovation, and use of newer materials; for example, fabrics which are odour proof and require less dry cleaning. La Dolce Vita is about embellishments, which are lighter but look really ornate. And for girls who find it difficult to drape a sari, we have easy-to-wear concept saris, or the sculpture saris.
What are the designs you have used?
The collection is divided into four broad series. Dripping Diamonds is an ostentatious take on these gigantic diamonds, which have been done in faceted glass and crystal and have been appliquéd onto the clothes. There is a very bold patchwork mesh with various embellishments done on flowers, which have been cut and then attached to garments using hand appliqué, a very labourious process.
Then there is a whole series on Seahorses, which has been done for menswear. This one is important and interesting for me because seahorse is the ultimate gender bender; it’s a male, which produces the young. So, it kind of shifts and reverses the traditional gender roles. I felt it was a great way to put a sassy spin on menswear. The collection also takes on Morse code, which is almost like a raised 3D kind of appliqué using merino wool felt and threadwork embroideries.
And the colour palette…
It started from the world of Fellini and a palette of strong black and white.
Any specific fabric/s that you have worked with for this collection?
We’ve used about 20 varieties of fabrics! From three different kinds of organzas, georgette, chiffon, velvet, and many different kinds of both traditional woven textiles, which have been done in a new way and also slightly futuristic kind of a high shine fluid fabric.
What are the silhouettes?
The silhouettes have an exciting take from lounges, kaftans and capes to very structured cocktail dresses and gowns to gender fluid pant-suits and blazers. There are concept saris and traditional saris. In menswear, we have co-ord sets, loungewear, bandhgalas, bandi sets and separates.
Price ranges from Rs 10,000 to Rs 12,000.
Available online.
Email: rupam@newindianexpress.com
X: @rupsjain
