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Couturier JJ Valaya’s fall-winter edit 'Muraqqa' celebrates three major Islamic art capitals
The House of Valaya’s new 60-piece fall-winter collection, Muraqqa, showcased at the recently concluded Hyundai ICWxFDCI, displayed a medley of rich textiles, fine crafts and elegant detailing. “The edit is inspired by the beautifully decorated albums from the Islamic world, which compiled poems, miniature paintings, and other artistic treasures. It honours the rich cultural heritage of three major Islamic art capitals, namely, Isfahan, Istanbul, and Delhi,” says JJ Valaya.
The edit traverses through three unique expressions -- Istanbul, inspired by a fusion based on intricately cut stencils of the Ottoman period, Isfahan, is where Persian carpets and miniature paintings rule albeit in a modern avatar, and Delhi, that heralds the intricacy of Mughal inlays. Fabrics range from custom woven silks to lush velvets with a glorious bank of silhouettes comprising lehengas, saris, evening jackets and outfits for women and sherwanis, Nehru jackets, bandhgala jackets and kurtas for men besides an assortment of stoles, shawls and other accessories for the season.
Tell us about Muraqqa.
What's new about Muraqqa is the subtle variations in intricacy, designs, colours, and techniques we have used. We don’t aim at being trendy – we are all about style and elegance and Muraqqa, too, embodies this philosophy, featuring our signature colours, silks, velvets, meticulously crafted prints, and renowned embroideries. We aimed at celebrating the beauty of Islamic art with a fresh, modern twist that resonates with today's audience, creating a new Muraqqa – a curated album of fashion that tells the story of these great cultural centres.
Trends in festive-occasion wear this winter?
I don’t follow trends but when it comes to winter wardrobe must-haves, there’s no strict rule. Beyond the classics, your wardrobe should include pieces that resonate with you and appeal to your personal style. Building a great collection is like collecting carpets and antiques for your home—it happens over time. You gather pieces season after season, keep them, and eventually pass them down to the next generation. That’s the true joy of couture.
What inspires you?
My core belief is to celebrate and revive the forgotten beauty of the past. I consider myself a cultural archaeologist, uncovering lost treasures of design and craftsmanship, giving them a distinct Valaya signature. The goal is to craft timeless designs that retain their value for generations. This philosophy drives all aspects of my work.
Your celeb fashion icon?
The late Iris Apfel was one of the most dramatic fashion icons ever. She had a unique way of playing with colours and textures, combining couture with high street finds, and shopping at flea markets while pairing her discoveries with high-end pieces. She embodied the spirit of creating a specialized, personal identity. I believe fashion is all about developing your own individual sense of style.
Upcoming collections?
Apart from Muraqqa, we've been working on the next collection called Panj for our bridge-to-luxury line JJV Kapurthala, which will be launched in August. Also, I'm developing a new line of home materials and furniture. Besides, we're looking forward to new JJ Valaya and JJV stores opening this year.