The grace of a kanchipuram sari is unlike any other garment. Blame it on the luxe nature of the silk or its timelessness, the wardrobes of all our grandmothers, mothers, and aunts will most probably possess at least one kanchipuram sari that only gets better with age. Its soft and exquisite nature helps you to keep up with any Indian occasion your calendar throws at you.
The fact that this ageless classic has found a permanent spot in the wardrobes of Bollywood celebrities like Rekha, Deepika Padukone, Anushka Sharma, Alia Bhatt, Samantha and many other A-listers, who remain royal patrons of kanchipuram sari, has also contributed to its desirability among the younger generation.
Indulge speaks to textile revivalists, designers, retailers and stylists about what contributes to its timeless appeal and how it has retained its original relevance and charm to every successive generation.
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It’s an emotion
Santosh Parekh, founder of Tulsi Silks, who has a collection of almost 2,000 saris dating back to 40 to 100 years, tells us that what is traditional will never die out. “And what is old will always come back in vogue; it’s a circle. The renewed interest in vintage kanchipuram saris only attests the same. In fact, the sale of kanchipuram saris has gone up beyond the pre-Covid levels,” says Santosh.
Shalini James, textile revivalist and owner of brand Mantra, tells us that it is not a small achievement for any textile to retain its relevance and primacy for nearly five centuries! “The kanchipuram sari is a strong representation of the traditions of the ancient city of Kanchi. It carries influences from the erstwhile dynasties that held sway over this region. As kingdoms rose and fell, each wave of migration and evolution brought in its wake new skills, techniques and designs that infused the weaving community with renewed vigour. Under the care and tutelage of sensitive revivalists and designers, the kanchipuram sari has blossomed into a work of art revered by the young and the old alike. Its popularity among youngsters comes as no surprise, because, when you wear a kanchipuram today, you wear so much more than just a sari,” she elaborates.
Vineeta Palam of Palam Silks believes it is the emotion that gets tied up with kanchipuram that truly makes it the queen of all fabrics. “The fact that you have seen the most beautiful women in your life draped in one — your mother, your sister, your grandmother — adds to its appeal. All your life you would have seen them own the stage when they drape one. It is natural for any woman to fall in love with this fabric after that. Innately, every young girl will try to emulate her mother, even unconsciously. It starts with the little things like picking up her jewellery, her accessories, probably even
her first sari could have been her mother’s,” explains Vineeta.
“Young 20-somethings take pride in owning one. Girls who were borrowing their mother’s and sister’s silk saris are building their own wardrobe now. The handloom movement had left a huge mark in the way we see silk now as a generation, and people take pride in wearing something that is made in Tamil Nadu. It is no longer just a fabric, you almost breathe life into the warp and weft,” says Vineeta.
Change is inevitable
More than a decade ago, kanchipuram sari saw a dip in popularity, which led to RmKV Wedding Silks to do a study on the same. “We spoke to mostly the younger generation and found out that it is cumbersome, difficult to carry and not suitable for our weather. So, we came up with our patented Lino Lite silks, which is 40 per cent lighter than the traditional kanchipuram, and is dyed with lac and Indian madder, which makes it more breathable and easy to wear. And that became a huge hit,” says K Sivakumar, managing director, RmKV Wedding Silks, adding that the sales have picked up reaching pre-covid levels.
Remarkable versatility
For Shankar Raman, owner and designer at Sundari Silks, who joined the family business after specialising in textile design at NIFT, Chennai, the answer to kanchipuram’s everlasting appeal lies in its versatility and the myriad ways it can be draped and styled. “When choosing key pieces for our trousseau or any other special occasion, the kanchipuram sari is a non-negotiable choice for the youth and its enduring appeal can be attributed significantly to its remarkable versatility. This inherent flexibility makes the kanchipuram sari a perennial favourite among fashion-conscious individuals. It has evolved while retaining its everlasting charm. The incorporation of materials like bamboo and silk has also played a role in enhancing its appeal, making it a timeless choice for any occasion,” says Shankar.
Kanchipurams are also the most friendly and accommodative of all fabrics. Its malleability to accept another fabric in its weave is something truly special. “In fact, we experimented a collection titled Blend n Trend in 2013. The kanchipuram was an adaptation of a painting by my sister Sunita Yogesh, who is the lead designer at Palam. The sari had 10 different fabrics like linen, cotton, jute, and silk cotton across the pallu. When a native fabric from Bhagalpur and Maheshwar can be entwined with a kanchipuram, it just adds to its universal appeal. A lot of women from the north who love benarasies, koras and linens are falling in love with kanchipuram over time. So much so that, all their weddings have sangeet and haldi followed by a South Indian themed party,” says Vineeta.
Modern kanchipuram
In the contemporary fashion landscape, an increasing number of young brands are harnessing kanchipuram’s remarkable versatility to breathe new life into it by creating modern silhouettes that resonate with a fresh generation of wearers. “The modern generation is giving it a modern twist. Saris of their mothers and grandmothers are getting converted into a kurti or a salwar top. They even get adapted as tennis skirts, co-ord sets, trendy tops and comfy pants,” says Sunil Menon, fashion show director.
Truly, there has been a sea change in terms of designs and colours. “As much as there is a demand for annapakshi motifs, paisleys and temples, the brands from Tamil Nadu are doing all they can to present them in a refreshing way by changing the design decorum,” says Vineeta, pointing out the new trends in kanchipuram.
Today, kanchipuram silk saris are not confined to tradition alone. Contemporary designs have taken centre stage, with big floral, animal, and geometric patterns in pastel hues making a splash. “Innovation is also on the horizon, with efforts to reduce the weight of these exquisite saris from 900 grams to 700 grams, ensuring wearers are both comfortable and fashionable. This has also contributed to its youth appeal,” says Shankar.
Fifteen years ago, pastels in kanchipurams were a rarity. Now, all the traditional South Indian brands have upped their game as the market has widened significantly over the last decade. “Earlier, kanchipurams without borders were considered blasphemy. Now, every young girl’s first sari would be a borderless soft silk sari — their first step into the world of modern kanchipurams,” says Vineeta.
A lot is happening in the design department. If earlier one design used to get launched every Diwali, that design will run through the year. “Now, brands come up with themed collection every quarter. For Diwali 2020, we launched Dynasty Collection — a series of silk saris inspired from South Indian Kingdoms where the coins and emblems of Chola, Pallava, Pandya and Chera Dynasties were woven as zari borders and bhuttas. Another collection titled Seeker is a celebration of global art forms starting from Indian Mandalas to Spanish tile art,” says Vineeta. Now, all the brands from Tamil Nadu are vying to make kanchipurams a global fashion statement backed by incredible teams of weavers and designers.
Transcends generations
Irrespective of which state you live in and which language you speak, kanchipurams will steal a piece of any woman’s heart. “A bridal trousseau is pretty much a mother’s forte. I have seen mothers start collecting gifts from the time a girl graduates. Anything that makes it to the trousseau will forever be special for a young girl starting a new life. Twenty years ago, kanchipurams were made only for the Muhurtham. Things are very different now as casual kanchipurams are as dominant as the bridal kanchipurams where you can wear a silk sari for your wedding, for your friend’s wedding and even for an intimate get-together. With such a multi-faceted appeal to it, kanchipuram is the star of a wedding trousseau,” says Vineeta.
Shankar seconds her views. “Kanchipuram sari is an indispensable element of every bridal trousseau. It transcends generations, connecting brides to their mothers’ wedding attire. These saris symbolise tradition and culture, offering a canvas for personalisation. They are draped to enhance the bride’s beauty, paying homage to ancestors and preserving cultural heritage, making them an integral part of every wedding celebration,” says Shankar.
The kanchipuram sari will never lose its charm. It is a timeless piece, which can be handed down like an heirloom from generation to generation, if the saris are preserved well.
“How the kanchipuram sari is draped and what the motifs are, are not relevant. What is relevant is that it is the most flattering weave and can suit any person, irrespective of their size, body shape, and height. As a traditionalist, I can’t think of any ceremonial event without kanchipuram sari and dhoti. These are the two elements that bring in and epitomises Indianess,” adds Sunil.
If you haven’t already procured a precious kanchipuram sari, it’s time to turn to this closet classic as it is sure to be one of your most precious wardrobe investments, because its appeal is everlasting.
— manuvipin@newindianexpress.com
Co-ordination, concept and direction: Sunil Menon
Costume designer & stylist: Sunil Karthik
Saris: Palam Silks & Sundari Silks | Jewellery: AVR Swarna Mahal
Sari Draping: Harish Murugasan & Kaviya Jayaraj | Photographer: Yogaraj Chandrasekar | Assisted by: Avinash | Models: Manasa, Aishwarya, Debnita Kar and Mahesh T | Makeup & Hair: Vedya Balakumar | Assisted by: Foxhair&makeupartist | Videographer: Yogaraj | Location courtesy; food & beverage: Svah @SYNCK Besant Nagar & Sunita Suresh (Red Consulting)