Meet the designers behind the Heeramandi jewellery collection

The spotlight, currently, is on Mughal jewellery, renowned for its rich heritage. Thanks to Shri Paramani Jewels and its association with the movie Heeramandi.

With a vision of authenticity in mind, Sanjay Leela Bhansali commissioned Vinay and Anshu Gupta of Shri Paramani Jewels, to design custom pieces for the series, and the Heeramandi collection was born.

Founded in 1789, the generations-old family-run enterprise is steeped in rich artisanal heritage. “Our history is truly of craftsmanship and jewellery design for over 200 years. Our forefathers were treasurers of the Mughal royals, thus we were the right people chosen for this project,” says Vinay.

A sixth-generation jewellery enterprise, it specialises in high-end pieces featuring authentic rubies, emeralds, pukhraj, and diamond polki. So how did the brand get associated with the eminent filmmaker? “We welcomed him to explore our collection, and he was particularly captivated by the exquisite basra pearls adorning pieces like the pasa, tika, nath, and necklaces,” recollects Vinay.

The Heeramandi collection boasts high-end jewellery featuring real rubies, emeralds, pukhraj, diamond polki, and precious stones of finest quality. Each necklace, meticulously handcrafted and delicately designed, symbolises the brand’s dedication to perfection. The intricate layering of necklaces, along with earrings, tikas, and naths reflects a blend of tradition and contemporary elegance, which was masterfully curated over three years with unwavering commitment and tireless effort.

“Using ancient handcraft techniques, we meticulously created kilos of jewellery. Every piece was painstakingly designed and curated over months. It took three years for craftsmen to come up with three rooms full of jewellery for the project,” says Vinay.

The journey started with the brand aligning on the basic principles of designing and understanding of heritage that the filmmaker envisioned for the series. “He is an artist and understands art, and our jewellery making is an art. The process started with us understanding the story, the narrative and then designing for each character in depth. It was a process that was not only driven by design but also understanding history, going back to the era and understanding each character. He was fully involved and invested in the making of this collection with me. Designing for Heeramandi was pure joy, as the name, characters, and the storyline have jewels at the centre of everything,” says Vinay.

For him, the source of inspiration when designing the pieces for Heeramandi was his own family legacy. And he went back to his roots to ensure that each piece accurately reflected the character and era depicted in the series. “For me, it was the joy of going back to my roots, heritage and legacy. I went through numerous archival designs from our family tree, museums, and books. The entire process of designing this collection with Sanjay sir itself was a learning experience and a reference point enough. While designing jewellery for each character, we looked at their age, their storyline, and their personality in the series. Each piece was crafted in keeping with each character,” he elaborates.

On the specific ancient handcraft techniques that were revived for creating this collection, he tells us that Mughal jewellery has a rich and fascinating history. “Mughal emperors were patrons of the arts and supported skilled artisans in creating elaborate jewellery pieces for themselves and their court. They featured a wide array of precious gemstones like diamonds, emeralds, rubies, and pearls, adding a luxurious touch to the pieces. It was at this time that artisans employed innovative techniques like kundan setting, filigree work, and enamel to create stunning patterns and textures. This collection is a celebration of the global influence Mughal jewellery has left and which are very much in vogue today,” signs off Vinay.

Price starts at Rs 15,000. Available online.

— manuvipin@newindianexpress.com