Back in time: Hop on a sweet shop trail of North Kolkata with Indulge

Every time someone is asked to describe the City of Joy in a few words, invariably sweets would find their way in the description. Rosogolla, Mishti Doi, Sandesh, in no particular order, have seeped into the socio-cultural milieu of the city’s fabric and even a layman would utter these words to talk about their to-do checklist or foodie wishes when in Kolkata. Kolkata, rather erstwhile Calcutta has been a sweet hub for decades with many of the most popular shops originating in North Calcutta. These shops have seen the test of time and have been a witness to the ebb and flow of the city, people’s tastes, and more. Not only have these places had popular icons of the city as their customers, they are also known for keeping up with their traditional practices in sweet making. Many are the  foremost choices to reach out to during any special occasions or festivals. Indulge takes you on a sweet trail in the very lanes of North Calcutta which makes the city a ‘sweet’ experience for the locals and tourists, alike.

Makhan Lal Das & Sons

The popular saying -the result of patience is sweet- would be discovered on one’s way to Makhan Lal Das & Sons. This busy shop is tucked away in the by-lanes of an even busier Nutun Bazaar and if the word ‘sandesh’ is synonymous then it is with Makhanlal… . What is bound to catch one’s attention are the plateful of colourful sandesh always on display, but also ones which fly off the plates even quickly.

Established in the year 1824, the variety and range varies from Chocolate Sandesh, Malai Chom Chom, hot Gulab Jamun, Chocolate Misthi, Chocolate Jolbhora and more. What makes the sweets delicious and flavourful is the use of fresh ingredients like desi ghee and nolen gur, during the winters. It is said to have been established by Moira (sweet maker) Ramchandra Das who came from the interiors of Bardhaman and set up shop inside the Pathuriaghata market. His hand-made sandesh became an instant hit among the people and the same processes have been retained for over six –generation of artisans who have recreated the delicious recipes of Das for almost two centuries.

Even with the advent of digitalism and modernity, what saved this heritage spot from being sucked into the wave is its originality. When one visits the shop today, one would inevitably be able to see the moiras meticulously working together to craft each batch of sandesh to perfection while the ready ones are sold off like hotcakes! Much of the process involves using hands for mixing, sizing and shaping along with the use of fresh ingredients. Every day new batches are made and sold making sure the end product is fresh and have a shelf-life for a few days at least.

Bhim Chandra Nag

When the wife of the British Governor Lord Canning was presented with the famous Ledikeni on the occasion of her birthday by the Bhim Chandra Nag sweet shop, the incident became immortalized in the culinary history of Calcutta. Even today, the shop is quickly identified with three unforgettable parameters - Ledikeni, Chanar Sandesh and the iconic antique clock on the wall.

Standing tall on 5 Nirmal Chandra Street since 1826, Paran Chandra Nag had established the shop which is named after his son Bhim Chandra Nag. With time they introduced a variety like Dilkhush, Parijat, Chanar Murki, Jol bhora Taal Shaansh, Chomchom, or Makha Sandesh, with the brand embossment on top of some of the sweets, that stand as crowd favourites even today.

In fact, legend has it that Ashutosh Mukherjee used to visit in his carriage, back in the days, and carry a heap full of Makha Sandesh with him. But what is interesting is that the shop named the famous Ashubhog after him, showcasing mutual respect and admiration. Also, once one enters the shop, it is impossible to miss the only functioning wall clock with Bengali words replacing their corresponding numerical which still hangs proudly on the wall having been a witness to changing times.

Nalin Chandra Das and Sons

One would invariably find their way to the Nalin Chandra Das and Sons while navigating their way through the colorful sights of Pathuriaghata market. One of the pioneers in sweets and desserts, this shop is not only iconic but also re-invents itself to stay on top of the game. While some of the fan –favourites from its 1841 days are carried on, they have quickly caught up with the trend of evolving food enthusiasm and outbursts of flavour profiles, whether trend-based or seasonal and pushes itself to re-invent in every step.

From the classic Green Mango sandesh which was the OG green colour sweet-long before the Gondhoraj sensation took over, to the Choco Rice Bowl, circular sweets with chocolate rice flakes all over, the shop has it all. With time, sweets like Strawberry, Gur Scotch, Black Currant, Choco Malai Roll, Monohara, Rose Cream, Pineapple and more started joining the original list of sweets including Chandrapuli, Shankha, Dilkush, Abar Khabo, and Keshar Jalbhora to name a few. The inexhaustible list is a lot longer.

These specialty sweets often find its way to special occasions for which Nalin Chandra Das and Sons, now managed by Tapan Das, happily takes orders and delivers in bulk. Although the original shop stills stands tall at Nutun Bazar, six other outlets can be found at Rashbehari Avenue, New Town, Salt Lake, Hedua, Ganesh Talkies, and Bangla Mishti Hub, making sure the sweets reach out to a large number of people all across the city.

It is interesting that two of the iconic sweet shops find space right next to each other and have over time each maintained their cult status among the people of the city through their originality and specialties which offer taste and nostalgia in every bite.   

Surendra Nath Dey & Sons

The long queue outside Surendra Nath Dey & Sons might make one wonder if they would be able to get their hands on their favourite sweets at all. But the constant refilling of each tray would definitely provide solace that every one returns with their choice of sweets from Surendra Nath Dey & Sons. This iconic eatery nestled on the main road at 14 Vivekananda Road (Jorasanko) was established in the year 1885. For around 139 years, the shop has been meticulously winning hearts of the people with its signature delicacies like Dilkhush, Babu Sandesh, Chocolate Sandesh, Pista Sandesh or Strawberry Sandesh and Basanta Bahar. Much like its contemporaries, the sweets are hand-made using age old techniques and processes which have been handed down through generations to keep the taste alive. It has been since its establishment a favourite joint due to its location and accessibility delivering far and wide for many occasions.

Girish Chandra Dey & Nakur Chandra Nandy

This collaboration between son-in-law and father-in-law Nakur Chandra Nandy and Girish Chandra Dey respectively started in 1844 and has stood the test of time for decades. With every ingredient being made and processed at 56 Ramdulal Sarkar Street, Girish Ch. Dey & Nakur Ch. Nandy has been a favourite for its exceptional Karapak sandesh since its inception.

Fifth-generation entrepreneur Partha Nandy sat us down to chat and discuss how evolving industrial trends could not seep into the traditional sweet making processes followed by the shop which has earned it, its classic status. With the approaching winter the shop is now all ready for winter delicacies. He mentions, “From Kali Puja till Dol / Holi the gur season is there. But after that the supply is less and Gur production is stopped.”

A common misconception stands that if gur is used as an alternative to sugar then no sugar is required. Breaking which he says, “Gur in its raw form is slightly salty, so sugar is mixed with it for the taste and texture both.” When asked about how do they keep the flavours intact after centuries, he says that there are documented processes which are used to make the recipes. “Our artisans still manually work and no machines are used to prepare the sweets.” He also gives us an interesting example of how Chowmein machines may be used to shape the strands for Sitabhog. But that technique heavily compromises the quality and texture of the end result. The shop is famous for its Moushomi, Jolbhora, Gurer Mohini and more which cannot be missed during this season.