Chef D Manjunath on curating a Malgudi Days-themed South Indian food pop-up
Chef D Manjunath recently cooked up a storm for foodies in the City of Joy, courtesy of a pop-up that showcased the authentic delicacies from the remote villages of South India. This pop-up, interestingly titled Malgudi Days, was held at Kava, Fairfield by Marriott. We caught up with the chef from Sheraton Grand Bengaluru to learn more about the menu and how recipes are handed down through generations.
How did the idea of curating a Malgudi Days pop-up occur to you?
The fictional town of Malgudi was based in the Shivamogga district of Karnataka. My uncle and aunt used to regularly visit Shivamogga and prepare new dishes. That’s how the idea of curating a Malgudi food pop-up occurred to me. I have tried and tested the pop-up at least three times in different places before bringing it to Kolkata.
How does the cuisine stand out?
I have made the local cuisines from places like Karavali, Mangaluru, Kundhapur, Sirsi, Sakleshpur, Bhatkal, Shivamogga, all of which I learned from my mother and aunt. There are local cuisines from at least 10-11 such villages. The menu comprises tarakari soup, mamsam, paneer, and a very famous steamed fish preparation called, Meen moilee.
What kind of special ingredients are put into this local cuisine?
I don’t use garam masala or the ones available in the market. I use the ones that are handmade. The masalas used in the dishes have been made at home, inspired by the techniques with which they are made in local households.
Have modern culinary trends influenced the authentic cuisines in these areas?
There is a reflection of modern culinary trends in the local cuisine. The locals are often preparing newer versions of the dishes. They often turn out to be more colourful and good-looking than the existing ones. This change also happens due to the ingredients that they use now. Earlier, coconut was rare. Today, one uses coconut in many dishes. The use of chilli sauce and tomato sauce is still rare, though.
How is the authenticity of the original local dishes passed on through generations?
The elders of the village community still teach children some of the original dishes. Interestingly, every household over time has introduced some variations to the same dish. Thus, every household has its own recipes. Moreover, during local festivals, people cook local food. So, yes, authenticity is definitely maintained.
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