Kai — From the Sea down ECR serves Barracuda tacos and Thai-style Threadfin

Expect 18 varieties of fish on the menu and regional, Pan Asian and European cooking styles

Sonali Shenoy Published :  25th February 2022 07:00 AM   |   Published :   |  25th February 2022 07:00 AM

Crispy barracuda tacos

There’s a new seafood spot down the ECR that is making waves with gourmands. And with good reason. At Kai — From The Sea, dig into a platter of Barracuda Tacos bursting with flavour with the same enthusiasm as a traditional Kerala Style Anchovy Fry. “It isn’t a fusion menu,” chef Mrigank  Singh is quick to clarify. Instead, the spotlight is on the best showcase of “fresh and seasonal seafood” of which we learn there are as many as 18 varieties on offer, that range from the lesser-known Indian Whiting to the ubiquitous Seer. “Nothing is frozen,” chef Mrigank points out. As for cooking styles, look out for an eclectic mix of Pan Asian and European, as well as regional staples, closer home.

 

A glimpse of the interiors

 

Soy ginger barracuda



Shell we eat?
Kavitha  Reddy, Director of Hatcheries of the GeeKay Group conglomerate tells us the idea for a space like this popped up when she found an appreciation for their prawns within her social circle. “The idea of using our might to source fresh catch and make it available more widely — stuck,” she says, as we get a quick glance of their ‘catch of the day’ display counter. This section which also stocks pickles pastes and marinades, off the shelf, is right next door to the 20-seater community-style fine dining space. Expect plush chandeliers and a handcrafted shell-inspired art installation on the wall. We take it all in over a refreshing glass of Sol Kadhi (made with kokum and coconut milk) which for those who aren’t familiar with it, is a digestive from Maharashtra — where chef Mrigank was prior to this, setting up a Mumbai cloud kitchen called ‘Gosht Stories’ curating mutton recipes across the Indian subcontinent. These days, however, we hear that his research has him diving deep into sourcing local varieties across pockets of South India (Cuddalore, Kovalam and Kakinada). He further surprises us with “aging of fish”. 

Curious, we get a taste of this first hand with a plate of Aromatic Poached 12-Day Aged Grouper. Subtle flavour notes but nuanced, and served with a fennel and garlic sauce, this might be the best thing we’ve tasted all month. Mrigank walks us through the process, “The fish are hung upside down for days at a controlled temperature, depending on the size and variety, making lots of changes to the meat. The result is just tastier fish.” We’ve heard of aging red meat, but aging fish is far less common and Mrigank tells us this may be a first in the country.

 

Fish rillettes



Fish on toast
Also, not to miss are the simple but divine Fish Rillettes. Imagine a bruschetta, except the topping is Fresh White fish (poached and smoked) — then smashed together with creme fraîche and lemon zest. Coming in a close second, is the heavy-on-citrus Ceviche (raw seabass marinated in lemon and orange juice mixed with onions and tomatoes and served with nachos). Dessert is just as impressive. We enjoy a Blondie drizzled with a generous dose of salted caramel sauce, while vegans can opt for the Fresh Mango Cake which sits in a white lake of coconut sauce. 

At 2, East Coast Road, J Nagar. Meal for two INR 1,400. 
 

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