With Durga Puja around the corner, Chennai's Bengali and Assamese communities will soon be coming out in large numbers for a traditional festive feast. And Bayleaf in Gopalapuram which is also celebrating its 25th year of the annual 'Durgotsav Food Festival' is bringing back bestsellers from the last two decades (Gondhoraj Golda Chingri and Mughalai-style Chicken Rezala), as well as some a handful of new dishes (like the crunchy Peas Posto cutlet).
We race ahead of the crowds for a special degustation of what you can expect from this Pujo special rollout of over 50 specialties. Our appetisers have flavours bouncing off the walls - from the Aam Kasundi Tikka with a bold hit of mustard which is in stark contrast to the Cheese Broccoli Croquettes, stringy on the inside with a mix of mozzarella and parmesan. The aforementioned Peas Posto cutlet, a chef's special for this edition is more subtle but delicious all the same, and has us reaching for seconds. We wash this down with the Nolen Gur Shikanji - with palm jaggery and Gondhoraj lemon sourced from Kolkata - which is refreshing and a blend of sweet and savoury.
Mains include baskets of light and airy Luchi puris (opt for plain or fillings like green peas or dal) that pair with Shukto. The latter is a comforting stew with ingredients like sweet potato, raw papaya, brinjal and Bodhi (white urad dal) and will only be available on vegetarian days like Saptami and Ashtami. Meanwhile, seafood is aplenty on this menu of course, and our table is quickly filled with bowls of Gondhoraj Golda Chingri and later, Parshe Shorshe, a river fish served whole in a light mustard gravy. Best had with hot white rice, both are potent with that golden mustard. The aromatic Bengali Mutton Biryani which arrives last is on the other side of the flavour spectrum - subtle, sweet and offering us a sense of glee every time we find one of those giant potatoes that you only ever find in a Bengali preparation.
We end our meal with Rolled pancakes with an indulgent mawa filling (Malai Patisapta) and then comes the highlight of the night, Ice Cream Sandesh! The name is a bit misleading because as we discover, it isn't actual ice cream but one bite of this sweet and rich dessert, served chilled and we are smitten.
September 30 to October 9. Lunch and dinner. Meal for two INR 1,200. Delivery and takeaway are available.