"Where I am from, when people leave for a day of hard work, they pack Bhakari, chilli chutney and onion, as it doesn’t go bad. It’s something I have grown up with,” said chef Shanti Narayan Kumbhar, her eyes twinkling with memories. These recollections were the spark for a special menu she has crafted alongside executive chef Bharti Chaudhary and chef Namrata Thapa for the upcoming Malvani Food Festival at Taj Wellington Mews. Each dish, an ode to simplicity and love, promises comfort food for the soul.
As we began the tasting, we sat down on a six-seater, bathed in the glare of six circular yellow lights that hung above our heads. Chennai’s skyline was awash in a golden afternoon sun and as white plates began to crowd the table, a symphony of aromas filled the air — spicy, rich, and nostalgic.
Unable to resist any longer, we dug into a bowl of Daal soup. Suncoloured in a teal bowl, it was a riot of flavours — all simple and familiar, the kind you find in home food. Moong daal, perfectly mashed into a thick, comforting soup, was brought alive with a tadka of garlic, onions, and red chillies, adding a pungent kick. The Kumbadi haldanicha rassa that followed was a delight — chicken stock infused with the warmth of familiar Indian spices, filled with shredded boiled chicken.
Accompanying these were three fried delights — Surmai, drumsticks, and raw banana . The fish , marinated in a fiery Kashmiri chilli paste and coated in a crispy coat of rava and flour, was a revelation. A dash of lemon juice, however, would have made it perfect. The Kelyachi kapa was decent, but the Shenga fry was a surprise for a confirmed drumstick hater! Coated in the same spicy rava, they possessed a smoky depth that was immensely addictive.
Then came the star of the show — the Tandalachi bhakari. Soft, pillowy chapatis made from rice flour, simple, yet transformed into something beautiful when paired with the fiery Mirchicha thecha and the crunch of raw onions.
Saving the best for the last, the meal culminated on a sweet note. We were presented with Modak, a Maharashtrian speciality, traditionally served as prasadham. The soft, thin rice flour shell cradled a rich, nutty coconut filling, all enveloped in the warmth of jaggery, and a sigh of contentment escaped our lips.
Overall, if you want to discover the traditional flavours of the less talked-about Malvani cuisine or just want to feast on some simple dishes, that warms the soul, do visit this food festival and we assure you will return happy with your head brimming with memories.
INR 2,300 ++ . From April 20 to 30. 7 pm to 10.30 pm. At Match Point, Taj Wellington Mews.
Email: Mayurkaushal@newindianexpress.com
X:@KaushalMayur
