Is it possible to encapsulate the flavours of Mumbai, this vibrant mecca of dreams, in just one meal? Of course, you’d say certain dishes like the vada pav or the pav bhaji do some justice to the spirit of the city — but capturing the flavours of this amazing metropolis in just one culinary experience seems bizarre if not absolutely unimaginable. Well, we thought so too, till we came across chef Vineet Bhatia’s Taste Of Mumbai tiffin offering at Ziya — the modern Indian cuisine restaurant at The Oberoi, Mumbai.
But let’s rewind a bit first. We set out from Bengaluru for a quick weekend in the madness that we’ve all come to know and love — Mumbai; and were hoping to have an authentic all-encompassing Mumbai gourmand experience. One can dream, no?
Now, we’ve done it all. From SoBo’s Parsi cafés to Matunga’s dakshini delights and Dadar’s desi treats to Versova’s Koli delicacies and everything in between. We’ve even tasted the Gujarati thalis, the East Indian fugias, the Marathi misal and usal pavs and the umpteen bhajiya pavs, dabelis and kanda pohas to our fill. We’ve also done the Gajalees, Jai Hinds, Janatas and the million local foodie joints to the point of exhaustion — each claiming to outdo the other through some adorable gimmick that we all accept and indulge in wholeheartedly.
But, if we were ever asked to choose one definitive meal that brought — or at least attempted to bring — all the flavours of this vibrant cosmopolis onto one plate, it is this not-so-humble tiffin that comes most close to the task. We aren’t saying other people haven’t attempted to do so in the past and we’re sure more will do so in the future — the joy of lunching or dining at Ziya with a view of Marine Drive and the Arabian Sea beyond, however, make this experience one of a kind and a succinctly unique one at that. Add to that the magic that Chef Vineet brings to each dish and we, quite incomparably, have a winner.
We had a tasting of a selected menu set for that day. But with a rotating menu, patrons can expect any of the dishes from the chef's elaborate curation for this tiffin meal when they visit. “Mumbaikars follow different customs, lifestyles and even faiths on an everyday basis but what unites them besides the great fanfare of all festivals is the love of food and such diverse offerings can hardly be experienced in any one city! The Taste Of Mumbai tiffin offers diverse flavours and culinary anecdotes of Mumbai’s much-loved communities, all on one plate,” explains chef Vineet.
Catered more to the tourist and the visiting gourmand who is stuck with a lack of time but with a deep fascination with what the megapolis’ gustatory quotient entails — the menu offers several tried and tested favourites including chaats, farsans (snacks) and desserts beyond the expected maincourse. Here are some of the delicacies you might be served:
As an appetiser: Aloo Palak Chaat, Beetroot Puri Chaat, Vatana Tikki Ragda, Dahi Bhalla Chaat, Kota Pattice Chaat, Karanji Choley, Dhokla Sandwich, Dosa-Aloo Cones, Rajasthani Pyaaz Kachori, Samosa Lehri, Matar Potli, Indori Khopra Pattice, Veg Achari Cauliflower Tikka, Malai Artichoke Tandoori, Mushroom Corn Seekh, Mawa Tikka, Mirch Broccoli Tikka or Chunda Paneer Tikka.
For the non-vegetarian main course: Murg Chandani Tikka, Gilafi Seekh, Thetcha Malwani Macchi, Bottle Masala Rawa Pomfret, Bhatti Ka Burrah, Gosht Ke Kofte, Konkani Kala Mutton, Malwani Prawn Curry, Rahra Gosht, Chicken Chettinad, Lamb Ishtew, Chicken Xacuti, Allepy Fish Curry, Salli Murgh, Badshahi Qualiyan or Koli Fish Curry.
As the vegetarian main course: Nadru Makhana Peas, Kolhapuri Vangi, Vegetable Beetroot Ishtew, Malabari Lobiya, Kofta Makhni, Sev Tamatari Babycorn, Aloo Mangaudi or Kathal Stir Fry.
For dessert: Churma, Almond Kulfi, Lapsi, Coconut ice cream, Mishti Doi, Fresh Fruit, Cinnamon Khaja, Litchi Palada Paysam, Jaggery Ice Cream, Sheerkhurma, Pista Roll, Papaya Kulfi Falooda or Kesar Murabba.
This, and of course, a salad based on the weather that day, could include: Grape Leaves, Chickpeas, Cucumber, Mint , Grapes, Red Kidney Beans, Brown Masoor, Argula, Broken Wheat, Black Chana, Grated Carrots, Sprouted Moong, Anar Salad, Pumpkin Sundal, Raw Papaya, Sweet Potato, Sorghum or Mooli (Radish).
We tasted quite a few of these offerings and were absolutely wowed by the flavour profiles and the exquisite quality of the food. While most dishes are catered to an international palate, requests can be made for specific spice levels based on your preferences. Needless to say, we were absolutely stuffed by the end of the meal, but not stuffed enough to say no to a much-needed serving of the in-house blend of hot black tea.
While we sipped on the sweet tea and looked into the horizon, we let it settle in that this was one of those experiences that comes closest to a gourmet version of what most of us eat at home, every single day. The only difference — the sheer diversity in the array of dishes, the impeccable quality of the food and lest we forget to specify, the feeling of satisfaction that we finally got as close as possible to the experience of what Mumbai would taste like on one single plate. That this menu only represents a sliver of the gastronomic universe — that is this conurbation— is a truth, but it is definitely the best attempt we’ve tasted and is reassuringly in the right direction.
Price on request. At Ziya, The Oberoi Mumbai, Nariman Point.
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