A taste of Odisha

Chor Bizarre in Daryaganj has long gained its name for being one of the first themed restaurants introducing Kashmiri cuisine in the capital since its inception in 1990.

While food enthusiasts have loved it for its finger-licking Kashmiri delicacies like Tabak Maaz, Kebab Kanti and Kashmiri Tarami, this year, it has caught the eye for hosting speciality pop-ups from across India. From bringing the street food of Old Delhi to kebabs from Nawabi cuisine, city folks are getting a taste of regional flavours. New on the list is the recently concluded Odia food pop-up hosted by actor-director Nandita Das.

She had collaborated with her friend Mona Lisa Bal, the Chairperson of KiiT International School in Bhubaneswar, and her “partner in crime” at whose home she had tasted the most “delicious” Odia meals to curate the menu that ranged from non-vegetarian recipes like Besara Maachha to vegetarian classics like Dahi Baingan and Kusala Saag.

The curation also had the involvement of brand chef of Chor Bizarre, Srinivas A.

Food and roots

A lively buzz and chatter filled the air with excitement as we entered the restaurant. The guest list was impressive – from actor Sharmila Tagore, and photographer Raghu Rai, to actor Gul Panag, all had come in for a taste of Odia cuisine, a rarity to find in Delhi. Without further adieu Nandita began the introduction to the food.

“I’ve always wondered why Odia food is not available anywhere except homes in Odisha,” she said. “When Chor Bizarre told me they were doing pop-ups from different states and wanted me to do an Odia one, I jumped at the opportunity. Little did I know it would be all consuming! But if I take up something, I like to go deep into it.”

For the Earth actor, food is a way to stay connected to her roots that may wither with time if not preserved. She recalls the good old days she used to spend in her artist father Jatin Das’ home in Baripada city, in the Mayurbhanj district of Odisha.

“The food, fields, river, well, relatives, and all the fun we had as children are deeply embedded in my memory. My grandmother would take me to the Jagannath Mandir, which was five minutes away from our house. We would also go to the weekly haat and town market to have street food and visit extended family. My cousins and I would put together a variety programme at the end of our holiday. I was quite the ringleader back then, teaching plays, songs, and dances!” the 55-year-old shared.

However, when she took her son to Odisha this year and on previous trips, she saw that “so much has changed and become ‘modern’. Urbanisation has ruined a lot of the pristineness that I remember. But it was still wonderful to be at home and share with my son all those lovely stories of my childhood”.

Home-style flavours

Recalling the delectable food from her hometown, Nandita talked of her “staple diet” of Pakhala. This cooked fermented rice dish, tempered with spices is served with various fried accompaniments. It’s not just a soul food for Odias in summer known for its hydrating properties but a cultural symbol annually celebrated with Pakhala Dibasa on March 20. She also talked of her grandmother as an amazing cook.

“She would just throw vegetables like aalu (potato), parwal (pointed gourd), baingan (brinjal) etc into the chulah (wood-fired stove). Once grilled, with its wood-fired aroma, raw mustard oil, onion, garlic and green chillies are crushed and added in.”

Soon a big thali decorated with Odia items was served. We began with the main course of steamed rice with Besara Maachha. The melt-in-the-mouth river sole was followed by Kasa Mangso, a slow cooked meat dish, also cooked in Bengal. However, the Dahi Kukuda which had chicken simmered in yoghurt-based gravy with minimum spices was quite unfamiliar to Delhiites attuned to thick gravy-based chicken dishes.

All three main course meat dishes let the natural meat flavours shine over the spice level - a hallmark of Odia cuisine.

“Odia food is simple, mild in its spices, and very flavourful. The masalas don’t overpower the produce, so you can experience the inherent flavours of the vegetables or meats. It’s also a healthy cuisine. The seasoning is what makes it unique, and the food is mostly cooked in mustard oil or desi ghee,” Nandita said as we next tasted another low-on-spice item, the Dalma.

This nourishing medley of vegetables and lentils is comfort food when served at Odia homes and becomes the food of reverence when served in temple offerings, including to Lord Jagannath at Puri.

We tasted the dish with sides like Potala Chingudi Bhaja (seasoned dry prawns served in a pointed gourd) and Ou Khata (Elephant Apple chutney cooked with jaggery). The brininess of prawns and the tang of the chutney added layers of flavours to the usual dal-rice combination.

As this 13-dish thali was nearly over, we asked Nandita if she liked cooking. Her answer is as layered as the flavours on our plate. “My father has been an instinctive cook and I grew up eating his food. His recipes have their roots in Odia cuisine. As a child, I ended up doing all the menial work like peeling, washing and chopping veggies and somehow never took to cooking. My mother was less interested in cooking and I guess I have taken after her!

We were more interested in reading and writing. In fact, I grew up thinking that mothers went to work and fathers cooked, cleaned and for recreation, painted! While I didn’t take to cooking, I have trained my cook at home, guiding him based on my own palate, as I’m a foodie,” she said as sweet memories were made even sweeter with Kheer Sagar. Its chhena balls in thick creamy milk ended our journey on a blissful note.