
Fry it, soak it in mustard gravy or go off the beaten path by curating a long –forgotten recipe! Have it in whatever way you want, but you cannot ignore the Hilsa or the Ilish during the monsoon. Available fresh when the river floods this season, cooking the hilsa is an art best learnt from Eastern India. And while cooking it is a skill, choosing the best pieces in the first place also requires experience and knowledge.
Selecting the perfect hilsa from the market is directly proportional to the texture, quality, flavour, tenderness and the praise that your cooking earns you. This beloved, fine-boned fish is a fish-eater’s favourite in June- July stretching to maximum early August. Here are a few hacks that you can keep in mind.
Choose the right weight
Do not be shy of weighing the fish with your hands. With experience you would have an idea of their weight. If there is a weighing scale nearby then check the actual weight which ideally should be anywhere between 800 gms to 1.2 kgs. Anything above this range may not be very flavourful.
Looks Matter!
A good quality ilish will resemble the shapes of gourds. They would have a wider stomach / belly and start to taper at both ends. If the belly is fat, then you will have a weighty and tender fish with juicy flesh. The eyes should be bright while pink or red gills indicate fresh fish. If the gills are discoloured then it may mean that the fish has aged quite a bit. The scales should also be shiny and tight.
Fishy nose!
This is the only time when your nose is allowed to hunt out something fishy. Take the fish in your hand and smell it. If it emits a strong stale or unpleasant odour then it means that the fish is not fresh and of good quality. But if you get a slightly salty yet fresh smell then it means it’s a relatively fresh catch.
Press the Flesh
Pick up a fish and gently press it. If you feel the firmness then it’s the perfect one to go home with you. In case you find it way too soft, then it indicates a fish which is old and spoilt. Moreover, check your hands after picking it up. If it leaves traces of oil then it means that the fish has good amount of fat in it which is responsible for the oiliness in your hands. If you are looking for a more fatty fish then be sure to cross check the source of the fish – Padma Ilish or Bengal Hilsa ?
No frozen business!
Hilsa is best bought fresh and immediately cooked. Try and avoid frozen ilish because the process may offer longevity to the fish but kills the natural flavour.
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