Romancing the Mango: Chef Sadaf Hussain’s mango-centric dinner at Bazm-e-Aam celebrates India’s beloved fruit

As monsoon clouds begin to hover over the capital, summer is slowly retreating. Despite the scorch of the past few weeks, there’s one thing Delhiites still await with childlike anticipation: mangoes. From Alphonso and Banginapalli (Safeda) to blushing Raspuri, mangoes arrive across India like edible postcards of summer. But beyond fragrance and flavour, mango season tugs at childhood memories — of climbing trees and grandparents waiting with plates full of mango slices dipped in salt, chilli, and oil. 

To celebrate this nostalgia, Delhi-based Kashkol Collective’s Bazm-e-Aam at IIC, offered an evening of poetry, dastangoi, music, and a mango feast curated by chef and author Sadaf Hussain. “Everyone has a childhood memory with mango,” says Hussain. For him, summers meant endless mangoes at his grandparents’ home in Sasaram, Bihar. He recalls eating mango mixed with rice and dal — a combo that reminded him of Thailand’s mango sticky rice, “but desi-style, though I didn’t love it,” he laughs.

On the plate

An elaborate five-course mango-themed meal awaited guests on the fountain lawn with recipes Hussain sourced from friends and local chefs across India. It began with a glass of chilled Aam ka Panna, setting the tone for the warm evening, paired with Mango Moong Dal Chaat — a sweet-savoury mix of raw mango, crispy moong dal, green chilli, and pomegranate — a palate refresher before the hefty main courses. Aam ka Panna, is popular in mango-abundant regions like Bihar and Jharkhand, says Hussain. “My mother used to make it every day. We’d return from school and the panna would be ready,” he says. 

A standout was Hussain’s favourite, Aam Keema, popular in Lucknow and Old Delhi. “It’s essential to make it every summer, because you’re not just eating regular mutton keema.” Hussain’s version presents itself elegantly, where tart mango meets rich, slow-cooked mutton with bits of potato for texture and to soak up the spice and tang. “With keema, you always want some sourness,” he explains. “People use curd, tomato, or karonda. “So in summer, why not swap in mangoes? It brings its own kind of tang. Especially with mutton.”

Then came Heinou Metpa, a spicy mango salad from Manipur made with raw mango, salt, chilli, sugar, and mint. Served after the keema, it worked as a palate cleanser after the sweet-spicy high. "The Northeast is often left out," Hussain says. "But their food is so simple and honest." A friend from Manipur shared the recipe. "I prepared it and just ate it with rice. It was so refreshing.” Other dishes included Ras No Fajeto or Ripe Mango Kadhi from Gujarat, Mamidikaya Pulihora or mango rice from Andhra Pradesh, and Aam ka Khoocha pr  Grated Mango Pickle from Bihar. The feast ended with Rajasthani Aam Kheer, made from sour raw mango and milk. “Getting it right is about technique,” says Hussain. “It shouldn’t curdle, or become overly sweet.” 

The dishes used Ramkela and Dasheri for raw mango recipes, and Safeda for ripe ones. Sourcing was a hurdle. "You only get mangoes from the area you’re in. I couldn’t access other varieties, or I would’ve added more regional dishes."

Many moods of mango

With the mango menu, MasterChef India 2016 contestant challenged the idea that mango is only meant for desserts or pickles. “That’s why the raw mango kheer,” he says, adding that Nawabi and Mughal kitchens thrived on surprise—dishes that flipped expectations through contrast. “I enjoy challenges. Just because something’s usually one way doesn’t mean it can’t be something else.”  Through Bazm-e-Aam, Hussain sought to honour mango as a seasonal favourite, and a cultural heirloom. “If it was just fruit, I’d slice and serve. But mangoes have so many regional recipes that keep them alive beyond the season.” 

In Indian folklore, mangoes are symbols of prosperity. A tradition still followed in villages is the gifting of mangoes. "I want people to appreciate food beyond its tastes. Know where it comes from, and why it exists,” says Hussain. “But more than anything, I want people to celebrate mangoes. I want them to romance it—to really fall in love with mangoes. Whether you're biting into a juicy slice or nibbling a raw, citrusy piece, the point is just to enjoy it."

Achraj (Raw Mango Mutton Keema)

Ingredients

1.      Raw mango: 3 medium, peeled and grated (1½ cups)

2.      Mustard oil: 4-5 tbsp

3.      Onions: 5 medium, sliced

4.      Mutton keema: 500g, minced mutton; 80% meat, 20% fat)

5.      Cinnamon sticks: 2

6.      Black peppercorns: 10-12

7.      Star anise: 1

8.      Cloves: 3-4

9.      Black cardamom: 1

10.  Whole dried red chillies: 3-4

11.  Ginger-garlic paste: ½ tbs

12.  Cumin powder: 1 tsp

13.  Red chilli powder: 1 tsp (adjust to taste)

14.  Crushed coriander seeds: 1½ tsp

15.  Turmeric powder: ½ tsp

16.  Curd: 6 tbsp, whisked

17.  Fresh mint, coriander leaves: 2 tbsp

Method:

1.      Saute sliced onions until light golden. Add mutton keema and cook till it changes colour.

2.      Add whole spices (cinnamon, peppercorns, star anise, cloves, black cardamom, red chillies). Sauté on high flame for 4–5 minutes. Add ginger-garlic paste, cumin, red chilli powder, crushed coriander, salt, turmeric, and whisked curd. Mix and cook on low flame for 3–4 minutes, until oil releases.

3.      Add grated raw mango and ½ cup water, mix, cover, and cook on low flame for 8 minutes, then uncover and cook on high flame for 4–5 minutes till oil separates. Add mint, coriander, and green chillies (2–3, sliced), cover and simmer for 4–5 minutes. Garnish with more coriander, green chillies and fried onion.

This article is written by Adithi Reena Ajith