This Hyderabad eatery will transport you to Rome
Hyderabad’s café scene may be thriving, but many spots tend to play it safe — offering the same repetitive mix of pizza, pasta, burgers, and sandwiches. The emphasis is often on Instagram-worthy plating and trendy décor, while the food itself feels like an afterthought. Breaking away from this formula is When in Rome, a charming little Italian eatery nestled in the quiet lanes of Nanakramguda. Here, the focus is firmly on flavour, freshness, and authenticity — reimagining Italian cuisine as a wholesome, everyday experience.
With a mix of indoor and breezy outdoor seating, the space embraces minimalist elegance. Shades of green and red — a nod to the Italian flag — run tastefully through the interiors. Potted plants and warm lighting add to the cosy ambience, creating an atmosphere that’s both inviting and unpretentious. It’s the kind of place where time slows down, and you can truly savour each bite.
We began with a round of cooling mocktails — zesty lemon, lush mango, and refreshing watermelon — all garnished with mint and basil seeds. Light, subtly sweet, and incredibly refreshing, they were the perfect palate openers on a sunny afternoon.
The classics
The first dish, the Pizza rossa, offered a bold start. Served in thin, crisp slices, it was topped with a house-made tomato sauce that packed a surprising punch of spice, balanced beautifully by tender mushrooms. The standout dish, though, was the Hot honey pesteroni — a pillowy, golden focaccia layered with basil pesto, warm honey, and slices of pepperoni. The contrast of sweet and savoury, combined with the soft inside and crisp crust, made every bite memorable.
We also sampled the Truffle Artichoke pizza, topped with cheese, sauce, and crispy fried basil. While thin-crust pizzas often get soggy, this one stayed impressively crisp. Its earthy, nutty undertones left a lasting impression.
The pastas were equally delightful. The Penne Arrabbiata came tossed in a tangy, garlicky tomato sauce, while the Alfredo Fettuccine was rich, silky, and deeply satisfying. The Arrabbiata suppli — golden croquettes filled with spicy bucatini pasta — delivered crunch on the outside and warmth within, served alongside a tangy tomato-garlic dip. We also tasted the Lamb Bolognese, a hearty, comforting classic.
One of the most unique dishes was the Piada — a warm Italian wrap stuffed with sautéed veggies, spaghetti, hummus, and sauces. It was filling, flavourful, and offered a beautiful blend of textures. Their custom Piada station allows guests to create their own version — a fun, interactive touch.
To end on a sweet note, we tried their warm, street-style desserts. The Cannoli cream stole the show —delicate shells shattered to reveal a lush mascarpone filling, sweetened just right. The Zeppole, soft Italian doughnuts sprinkled with sugar and paired with cream, were comforting and nostalgic.
When in Rome is a must-visit to try authentic delights which are light on the stomach and heavy on flavour.
`800 for two.
At Nanakramguda.
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