Exploring Meghalaya, the Scotland of the East, through its food

"As children, when we used to come back home from school, our parents were usually at work. We would play with friends, and once we came back, we would be hungry. But since our parents were away at work, by the time they returned and cooked, it would have been late. So, we would try our hand at preparing food. I used to make rice and potatoes. Every girl and boy in the Khasi tribe knows how to cook,” recalls Chef Jubanlak Mawphniang, who flew down from Meghalaya to Kolkata, for the Khasi Food Festival at Kebab-e-que at The Astor Kolkata.

Chef Jubanlak Mawphniang speaks to us about what makes Meghalayan cuisine stand out from elsewhere

This home chef, who keeps Lakadong turmeric, black sesame seeds, ginger, garlic, and black pepper handy in his kitchen, has curated an elaborate menu comprising momos, soup, black sticky rice, juicy pork roast, fish curry, and more. We catch up with the chef on what makes Meghalaya’s cuisine so popular, starting from the momo to its festive menus.

Seasonal ingredients

Khasi food is all about seasonally available ingredients, which are free from preservatives. He says, “A lot of these fresh ingredients are not just restricted to Meghalaya but are available in Assam and Mizoram too. We use a lot of bamboo shoots in our food. Black sesame is another staple ingredient that goes in almost all dishes. Meghalayan cuisine doesn’t use a lot of oil; instead, we opt to boil our food. Moreover, some of our ingredients can remain fresh for up to a year, like the Lakadong turmeric. We use only whatever is required for the day and save the rest in air-tight containers where it gets naturally preserved.”

No dessert routine

With a cuisine that’s devoid of desserts, where does the sweetness come from? He answers, “After meals, we have fruits like pineapple, orange or at the most, kwai (raw betel nuts), and that is enough for us. To bring out the sweetness, we drink red chai with added sugar.”

Momo mania

The chef point s out , “Since Meghalaya is a cold region surrounded by the hills, people love eating momos, especially with the soup, to keep the body warm and gain strength. The process of making momos isn’t very different and is actually quite simple. Also, the spicy chutney does the trick, which is made with seasonal chillies.”

Maxed out chillies

Meghalyan chillies serve as a benchmark for spiciness. With the food not incorporating spice, how do king chillies sit on the palate? “King chillies are flavourful and spicy. Even a tiny hint of consuming the oil of the king chilli pickle will make you feel the spice and warm you up from the inside. We are used to eating it. But we, especially the children, consume a lot of boiled, no-spice food too. For children, the spiciness comes from black pepper.”

Cool chutneys

For all pickle lovers, he refers to a one-stop destination. “In Nongpoh, you will find a lot of pickles. When tourists come to eat and rest, they try a variety of it, even non-vegetarian ones like dry fish and chicken. All these are made at home and sold to the tourists.”

T for turmeric

While a lot is said about the Lakadong turmeric, he says, “It is mostly available in the Jaintia district but used all across Meghalaya. The colour of this organic turmeric is very strong. For any other turmeric, sometimes one spoon isn’t enough, but for this variant, even a pinch-full gives a strong colour. If you drink it with warm water on an empty stomach, it is good for the gut.”

Festive joy

Celebrating several festivals in different tribes and communities, the cuisine includes “Dry pork, silkworm, and roast barbecue. There are stalls on open grounds where fresh barbecues are made during the festivities,” he says.

Staple rice

Before signing off, he gives a quick lesson on making Putharo, a teatime snack. “Soak rice, dry it, and grind it till it becomes powdery. Traditionally, it is made by placing the putharo rice inside a pre-heated clay pot, right up to the lid. It cooks only on one side. Keep it with the lid on for five to ten minutes, and it is cooked.”

The Khasi Food Festival is on till August 10.