In Abanotubani, the old Bath District of Tbilisi under the imposing Narikala fortress where the air has a rotten egg odour, children clamber on the brick cupolas of the cluster of subterranean bath houses with filigreed glass doors, located along a rambling stream. Not many know that piping hot sulphur springs bubble underneath the ground here. The thermal spring water is the reason the city exists.
The name Tbilisi comes from the Georgian word ‘tbili’ which means warm and is derived from the hot springs that still exist. These geothermal springs are a cherished part of the culture and identity of this city, the capital of Georgia, located at the crossroads of Europe and Asia and enshrined in its pop culture, music and poetry.
According to legend, King Vakhtang founded the town in the 5th century, on the site where as he was hunting, his falcon found a pheasant cooked in the hot waters. The king decided that it was the perfect place to spend cold winters. However archaeological excavations have revealed that the first baths in Tbilisi date back to the first century BC, when it was under Roman occupation. Today, the sulphur baths built in brick and stone, in the Bath District are used by locals and tourists at a very nominal fee. One of the oldest places in the town, Abanotubani has dome-shaped sulphur baths made of bricks with an opening in the centre for light and ventilation. It reminds me of molehills. Most of the baths were built underground so that the spring water could flow in directly without the use of pumps.
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History whispers from every corner. These sulphur baths have been visited by many famous people, including Alexander Pushkin and Alexandre Dumas who is said to have felt “strong enough to lift a mountain” after soaking in its waters. The waters are at a toasty 40 degrees, rich in minerals and sulphur, and have therapeutic effects, claiming to heal almost everything from heart disease to skin ailments. Most locals visit the baths as a weekly ritual.
With Tbilisi being an important centre on the iconic Silk Route, Persian-style baths came into vogue. During hard times and no electricity, when running water was scarce, these baths were places of refuge in cold winters where locals found comfort. Many of them are reminiscent of Turkish hammams and are often named after the owners. At one point there were as many as 70 baths dotting this area. These were areas of socialising, where one could even conduct business and hope to indulge in matchmaking. Women would visit to check out prospective daughters-in-law, and neighbours would catch up on gossip and bond with friends.
Each bathhouse is gender-segregated and has a unique quality and interiors with vaulted ceilings, exquisite wall mosaics, murals, tiles and faux marble, where the kisa—the vigorous exfoliation or scrub down with a coarse woollen mitten—is the hallmark of the bath experience. After the scrub, silky suds are rubbed onto the exfoliated body, followed by buckets of warm water being poured, washing away the dead skin. Towels, disposable slippers, soap and drinks are provided at an added cost. One can jump into the pools after the massage and soak away the aches and pains.
Don’t miss the Orbeliani Baths, the iconic blue-tiled bathhouse, which is known for its stunning Persian-inspired architecture and looks like a mosque. For a more luxurious experience, head to the Tbilisi Balneological Spa Resort, dating back to 1938, housed in a period building with a huge atrium. It boasts a team of qualified doctors and therapists and is often visited by famous guests from around the world. Former Indian Prime Minister Indira Gandhi had been here. The resort was started after a group of German geologists and scientists visited Tbilisi to study the mineral waters of Georgia, and recommended starting a centre. The spa offers everything from a colon cleanse to a mud bath, a Finnish sauna, underwater massages and dry stretching. You can opt for a massage, a dip in thermal waters and best of all, soak in a tub of red Saperavi wine. It doesn’t get more luxe than this.