'Once lost, heritage cannot be rebuilt,' says renowned architect Frederik Franken during his visit to Kochi

In 1994, when Frederik Franken first visited Fort Kochi, he was undertaking a study which, as part of his graduation project, made an inventory of the monumental values of the region. The report eventually paved the way for a conservation plan for Bastion Bungalow.

Today, 30 years later, Frederik, who hails from the Netherlands, is a renowned figure in the field of architectural conservation. As monument advisor for the city of Amsterdam, he advises and directs the maintenance of key monuments, including the Portuguese Synagogue and Our Lord in the Attic Museum in Amsterdam, the Binnenhof (Houses of Parliament) in The Hague, castle Gunterstein in Breukelen and various canal houses.

In a free-flowing chat with us, Frederik talks about the need to conserve built heritage, the hidden dangers of unchecked tourism, conservation efforts undertaken across the world, and more…

Could you elaborate on your interest in conservation of architecture?

I have always enjoyed visiting cities with historical architecture in Europe, particularly in the Netherlands, where you can easily sense the past through these old buildings. I believe understanding the past is essential for envisioning the future. Historic cities are often designed with human scale in mind, making them more walkable compared with car-dependent modern layouts.

The craftsmanship of historic buildings is an art I greatly admire, far surpassing today’s industrial construction methods. Older structures have proven their durability and functionality, and conserving them is important for preserving their historical value. Studies in the Netherlands show that towns with designated monuments are more appreciated and have higher property values. Therefore, conserving these old structures benefits entire communities.

Could you elaborate on your graduation project at Delft Technical University, which involved building an inventory of monumental values in Fort Kochi?

The project, in collaboration with Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage (INTACH), the School of Planning and Architecture in New Delhi, and TU Delft – was a unique opportunity to explore the world. Fort Kochi had already been declared a heritage zone, but Mattanchery needed attention as well. We focused on Fort Kochi because we had better access to information.

We conducted research in Dutch archives, surveyed the area, and analysed its historical development and architectural features. We created maps documenting each building’s origin and condition and suggested tools for renovation. Our report was shared with local authorities but we did not expect to see it implemented. The Bastion Bungalow plan aimed to convert the building into a museum with a contemporary design, but it was ultimately too ambitious. Besides, the plan formulated then does not follow the rules that I now apply for building conservation.

How do India’s conservation efforts compare with the likes of the UK, the Netherlands, and Italy?

In Italy, the focus is on preserving the construction history of a building and adding contemporary design where appropriate. The building’s present function is not displaced by blind efforts to historicise it. In the UK, there’s a stronger emphasis on restoring buildings to their original state by removing later additions. The reconstruction of the interiors of the Royal Pavilion in Bristol is a good example. The Netherlands prefers a neat and clean approach, which can, sometimes, lead to unnecessary interventions. Restoration efforts here also mean to make buildings beautiful again. This can sometimes risk damage to the monument’s value.

India’s approach may differ, but I observed remnants of paint and plaster in Agra and the Red Fort during my recent visit. This suggests that these buildings have undergone coloured finishes recently. I hope the upcoming Architectural Finishes Research Conference in the Netherlands could do with Indian input on measures employed here.

What are the key advantages of having a city-specific monument adviser overseeing conservation projects, rather than a centralised administrative body?

A local conservation department, like Amsterdam’s, has specific knowledge of the area’s construction and architectural styles that can differ across regions. Monument advisers can visit buildings early in the permit application process, share their expertise with architects and building owners, and guide them through renovation guidelines. They can also assist city inspectors during renovations. Amsterdam’s department has seven monument advisers, seven building historians, and several policy officers and archaeologists. This reflects the importance accorded to conserving over 9,800 monuments in the city. Smaller cities may not have such large teams, but still benefit from localised knowledge.

What changes did you notice in today’s Fort Kochi when compared with 1994? Has tourism impacted its cultural and historical significance?

Tourism has increased significantly in Fort Kochi, transforming it into a bustling destination. While some feared that many historic houses had been demolished, I found the area’s charm largely intact, with new construction blending well. However, many homes are now hotels, shops, and restaurants catering to tourists. The residential population has diminished. When the tourism economy takes over a city, the ensuing change risks turning the area into an open-air museum devoid of life. Mattancherry, where people still live and work, now feels more vibrant and authentic. For me, it is here that I experience the real Kerala.

How do you ensure that measures taken to provide tourist amenities don’t impair the built heritage of Amsterdam?

Amsterdam is known for its well-preserved medieval, 17th-century, 19th-century, and early 20th-century urban districts. The old town, with its canals, has Unesco status. Strict rules and clear guidelines govern renovations and maintenance. Zoning plans define which buildings can be converted into hotels, shops, or restaurants. The city restricts new hotel construction and limits bed-and-breakfast rentals to a maximum of 30 days per year.

What measures would you suggest for efficiently conserving the Mattancherry synagogue, given your experience with the Portuguese synagogue in Amsterdam?

The synagogue in Amsterdam remains in active use, while the Mattancherry synagogue is in ruins. Representatives of INTACH Kochi and I discussed restoration approaches, including whether to recreate the interior fully. An alternative is to transform it into a museum, highlighting the history of Kerala’s Jews and religious tolerance. Such a museum could also host lectures and events for the local community. It would help preserve Kerala’s legacy of peaceful coexistence, which is increasingly relevant worldwide.

Canal houses are significant in Amsterdam. Could they also be adopted in Kerala, which has a similar topography?

In the Netherlands, canal houses are built on deep piles due to the region’s low elevation and muddy ground. While Kerala’s geography is different, Dutch expertise in water management could prove useful. This was highlighted during our king’s state visit to India, and later, Kerala, in 2019. Our expertise could help in finding effective solutions for protecting low-lying regions.

[Editor’s note: A delegation from the Kerala government had, in the same year, visited the Netherlands to explore cooperation in water management and flood prevention. It assumed significance given the large-scale calamity witnessed the year before on account of floods.]

What was the purpose of your recent visit to Fort Kochi?

I visited Fort Kochi after my wife had a meeting in Delhi. K J Sohan, former Kochi mayor and a conservation enthusiast, facilitated a meeting with INTACH Kochi, where we discussed Fort Kochi, and the Mattancherry synagogue. Though not currently involved in any local conservation projects, I would love to collaborate. In 1994, I fell in love with India, and my affection for the country remains strong.

What advice would you offer officials and volunteers tasked with conserving built heritage in Kochi/Kerala?

Stay persistent and have faith in your work. Once lost, heritage cannot be rebuilt authentically. Future generations will appreciate your efforts, even if they are not immediately understood today.