Skincare experts cut through trends with back-to-basics advice

Open YouTube or Instagram and you’ll find endless creators swearing by their ten-step skincare routines. From snail mucin serums to red-light therapy masks, the products are glossy, expensive and often presented as essential. But dermatologists say the truth is far simpler: your skin doesn’t need all that.

Dermatologists say your skincare routine should be simpler than you think

“Social media is having such a huge influence on what we’re using in our skin,” says Dr Kathleen Suozzi, professor of dermatology at Yale School of Medicine. “Every individual is acting like their own clinician and trying to diagnose their own skin type and experiment with different regimens. And really the main overarching thing is that skincare regimens have become way overcomplicated.”

Most viral products, experts agree, are not necessary. Some may do little harm, but others can cause irritation or worsen existing concerns. Dermatologists stress that the foundation of any routine should rest on three simple products: a gentle cleanser, a moisturiser to hydrate the face and a sunscreen with at least SPF 30. Beyond that, too many extras can trigger sensitivity and waste money.

“The truth of the matter is, nine out of ten skin care concerns on the face that people come to see me for are worsened by UV radiation from the sun,” explains Dr Oyetewa Asempa, director of the Skin of Color clinic at Baylor College of Medicine. Wrinkles, pigmentation, acne scarring and dullness are all intensified by sun exposure — making daily sunscreen the most important step.

When it comes to anti-ageing, retinoids and retinol creams can play a role. These vitamin A derivatives are proven to stimulate collagen, which keeps skin plump and elastic. But dermatologists caution against using them too early. “Retinoids can be helpful once you reach your thirties, when collagen production naturally slows,” says Suozzi. “But if you start too young, you’re more likely to cause irritation than prevent wrinkles.”

Exfoliation is another popular step — and another area of confusion. Physical scrubs with beads, sugar or salt can be harsh on delicate facial skin. Instead, experts recommend chemical exfoliants like alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs). These gently dissolve dead cells, brightening skin and softening texture. However, they should always be paired with sunscreen, since exfoliation makes skin more sensitive to UV.

Some ingredients dermatologists would rather see left behind altogether. “I want you to leave the beef tallow with the cows,” says Asempa, dismissing the trend of applying rendered cow fat to the face. Light therapy masks, meanwhile, may have limited benefits, but require consistent use and strong devices to make any real difference. “They’re not something that’s going to be transformative,” says Suozzi.

Price tags, too, can be misleading. “Price does not equal efficacy, and it does not equal better results,” says Dr Jordan Lim, dermatology professor at Emory University School of Medicine. “A lot of the ingredients you’re seeing in a $6 cream are also in a $20 cream, also in that $300 cream that you see a celebrity using.”

That doesn’t mean trends have no value. Some ingredients popularised online — such as niacinamide or hyaluronic acid — do offer benefits when used appropriately. The problem, dermatologists say, is layering too many active ingredients at once.

At the end of the day, skin thrives on consistency more than novelty. A pared-back routine that cleanses, moisturises and protects from the sun every day will achieve far more than the most elaborate haul of trending products.

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