Nose pin is an ancient part of Indian tradition. However, the history that follows indicates a different picture altogether. It seems that the custom was brought to India relatively late, around the 8th to 13th century, and was then modified through Indian traditions.
Sushruta Samhita is often quoted as a source proving that there were piercing traditions in ancient India. In fact, the Samhita talks about karnavedha – ear piercing. There are several doubts concerning the age of the practice in question raised by early Indian sculptures. They depict jewellery very meticulously, but there are no nose decorations in them.
Earlier history suggests the Middle East as a source of the nose pin. There was evidence of nose ornamentation in that region for thousands of years. The practice seems to have reached India via later contacts. By the 15th century, the custom had spread throughout India.
The ornament’s look and stature were further altered by the Mughal era. During the 16th century, the Mughal courts preferred ornate jewellery. This resulted in the nath becoming larger, more elaborate and more linked to court fashion. The Rajputs, Marathas, and other local royal families adopted this trend.
The change was not merely through designs. This ornament was associated with pre-existing Ayurvedic notions of female physiology and came to be highly valued for the Hindu wedding ceremony. The bridal nath was especially significant. It is a big hoop, which is frequently attached to the ear by a small chain. The size and weight of this nath make it so impressive. This nath is associated with Goddess Parvati, who is the wife of Shiva and a symbol of a married woman, or suhagan.
The act of wearing such a nath means paying respect to this goddess. The nose pin too acquired the connotation of being an auspicious one. It symbolized protection and luck for the woman and the family that she was entering. It could also signify the passage from childhood to womanhood.
Placement came to have its own traditional explanation as well. The left nostril placement became more popular. The Ayurvedic explanation states that the nerves connected to this part of the nose have a relation to the female reproductive system. Piercing at this spot is believed to balance this energy, making periods and labour easier.
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