Sorena occupies two floors of Mansionz One on Linking Road, with almost 11,000 square feet devoted to restaurants, bars and places to sit. There is a large chandelier over the island bar, a curved staircase running through the room, paintings, objects and enough glass to make the Mumbai skyline part of the décor after dark. The space is big, but it does not feel particularly difficult to settle into.
The more interesting idea is on the menu. Sorena takes its cues from five cities: New York, Sicily, Mumbai, Tokyo and Istanbul. It is a slightly slippery proposition, because the food is not arranged as a tour through five cuisines. Sorena does not convolute the menu with an endless parade of references. Instead, there is a surprising amount of attention given to each dish, its ingredients and the particular flavours it is trying to bring forward.
Some of the most enjoyable things I ate were the ones that made little effort to justify their passports.
The Za'atar Chicken was immediately likeable. The chicken had enough char to give it some bite, while the za'atar brought its earthy, herby flavour without overwhelming the meat. It is the kind of dish that disappears faster than you expect.
Then came the Bacon and Scallion Wantons, which may be the most dangerous sort of bar food: crisp, salty, rich and very easy to keep eating. The bacon gives the filling its savoury depth, while scallion cuts through some of that richness. They make sense alongside a drink, which is probably exactly where they belong.
The Avocado Prawns took things in a fresher direction. The avocado gave the prawns a soft, creamy counterpoint, making the dish feel lighter without becoming forgettable.
The Mutton Rezala was the standout for me. It is rich, aromatic and deeply comforting, with the kind of gravy that asks for something to mop it up with. The glazed naan is particularly good here, bringing a touch of sweetness and caramelisation against the savoury mutton. It is a dish that feels less interested in being cosmopolitan and more interested in being delicious.
There is plenty of ambition in the room and on the menu, but the dishes I wanted more of were the ones with a clear point of view. The rezala, the wantons, the chicken. Food you can order because you like the sound of it, rather than because you are trying to complete a culinary itinerary.
For all the talk of five cities, Sorena's most convincing reference point may still be Bandra itself: curious, crowded, slightly excessive, and perfectly happy having several things going on at once.
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