Cotton has become fashion’s answer to almost everything. It is breathable, familiar and endlessly versatile, which makes “100% cotton” an increasingly reassuring phrase to spot on a clothing label. But there is more to that little label than meets the eye.
Cotton refers to the fibre, not one specific kind of fabric. How those fibres are spun, woven, knitted and finished can produce fabrics with completely different textures, weights, drapes and levels of structure. Here are some of the cotton fabrics worth knowing.
Smooth, crisp and tightly woven, cotton poplin uses a simple plain weave, with the threads crossing over and under one another in a regular pattern. The result is a flat, polished surface that holds its shape well without feeling especially heavy. It is why poplin works so well for shirts, summer dresses and structured tops.
Cotton voile is a very lightweight, fine plain-weave fabric made with fine yarns and relatively low fabric density. It has a soft, fluid hand and is often semi-sheer, which makes it good for breezy blouses, flowing dresses, dupattas and layered garments. It's delicate, floaty and slightly translucent.
Cambric is a fine, densely woven cotton with a smooth surface that is often calendered, meaning it is passed through heated rollers under pressure to flatten and polish the fibres. The result is a fabric with a slightly crisper, smoother hand than lawn, making it useful for kurtas, shirts and garments that need a cleaner, more structured silhouette.
Fine, lightweight and smooth, cotton lawn is prized for its airy feel and soft drape. It can be slightly sheer, especially in lighter colours, and its fine surface makes it a popular choice for prints. It is perfect for breezy summer dresses, blouses and lightweight suits.
Muslin is a broader category of plain-woven cotton cloth, traditionally made with relatively loose construction. It can range considerably in weight and texture, so unlike voile, it isn't necessarily fine or sheer. Lightweight muslin feels soft and breathable, while heavier versions have more body and can be used for relaxed shirts, dresses and home textiles.
Khadi is traditionally handspun and handwoven, giving it a characteristic texture and subtle irregularity. It can feel crisp when new and soften considerably with use and washing, making each piece feel slightly different.
Look closely at cotton twill and you will notice the diagonal lines running across its surface. That distinctive pattern comes from the way the threads are woven, with each row offset from the one before it. The construction gives twill more weight, durability and drape than a typical poplin, making it a favourite for trousers, jackets, uniforms and workwear.
Denim is a sturdy cotton twill, recognisable by its characteristic diagonal weave. Its tightly constructed surface gives it considerably more durability and structure than lightweight cottons such as voile or lawn, which is why it has become synonymous with jeans, jackets and other hard-wearing garments. Traditional denim also uses contrasting warp and weft yarns, which gives the fabric its familiar blue-and-white appearance.
Unlike poplin, twill and denim, jersey is knitted rather than woven. Instead of crossing threads over and under one another, it is made from interlocking loops, giving the fabric its characteristic stretch, softness and fluidity. Cotton jersey is widely used for T-shirts, casual dresses and other garments where movement and comfort matter more than structure.
Email: anoushkakundu@newindianexpress.com
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