The textiles trade in India goes way back to 3000 B.C. However, in the 17th century, the most valued commodity imported to Europe was chintz. It was made of cotton and was adorned with vibrant floral, geometric and natural prints. Its appeal lay in its durable and colourful nature.
The Indian fabric originated around the 10th century. Its name is derived from the Indian word chint, meaning dots. Indian craftsmen made use of organic dyes like indigo in combination with metallic mordants and wax or resin resist to give vibrant colours to their cloths. India's climate helped with cotton production, and some rivers in India aided in dyeing the cloths.
The production of textiles was confined to central India and coastal regions, both eastern and western. The association of Europe with Indian cotton cloth came about when Vasco da Gama reached the port of Calicut in 1498 and brought with him Indian cotton cloth to Europe. In the early 16th century, Portuguese traders referred to the cotton cloth as 'pintado,' which meant painted.
The use of Chintz became widespread throughout Britain, France, and Holland during the 17th century. It was used as curtain material, wallpaper, bedsheets, palampores and clothes, such as gowns, jackets, coats and dressing gowns. At the end of the century, the usage of Chintz had risen to over a million each year. Despite being seen as more informal than silk and velvet, it transcended class distinctions.
Designs were altered according to the needs of the European market. White was used as the background, whereas designs such as the Tree of Life, along with flowers inspired by Chinese designs, were favoured.
Chintz's success posed problems for European woollen and silk producers. India’s chintz was banned in France in 1686, and in Britain partially in 1700. Nevertheless, the demand remained high, and the smugglers found their way around the laws.
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