Moringa Phee, the highly acclaimed traditional handwoven textile from Moirang of Manipur, is easily identifiable by its distinct triangular border, known as Pheejin or Yarongphi. This pattern symbolises the fangs of Pakhangba, the mythical serpent god of Manipuri folklore. Located 46 km away from Imphal, Moirang’s weaving tradition has a much wider reach than just its geographical boundaries.
The history of Moringa Phee traces back to the 12th century, during the rule of King Meidingu Loiyumba. According to the royal chronicle Loiyumba Silyen, there were designated duties for each clan. It was the duty of the Moirang people to make Yarongphi, which is a holy cloth, and it came to be known as Moringa Phee. The fabric was woven as a tribute to the Meitei kings.
The most unique characteristic of the fabric is the Pheejin design. These sharp triangles have been used in odd numbers like 3, 5, 9, and 11, moving towards the centre of the fabric. Parallel to the weft, this design has been woven using the extra-weft weaving technique. This design was considered to be spiritually protective, and the first-ever creation of the Pheejin design had salutations performed for it.
The Moringa Phee yarn is made up of fibres such as Lashing, which means cotton, Kabrang, meaning silkworm cocoons and mulberry silk, and Santhak, which is the tree bark. The yarn could be dyed using plant leaves and barks prior to starching using rice water. Looming is carried out using a loin loom, throw shuttle or fly shuttle loom. The throw shuttle loom is specifically mentioned as being light and portable.
It has been developed from the conventional Innaphi shawl and Phanek cloth. The cloth is used in the context of marriage, festivals, worship in temples, and ancestor worship. It symbolises fertility, luck, and strength for women. It is also associated with Lai Haraoba and presented as an honour to the temples.
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