Ashish N Soni’s latest collection, Soiree at The Grand Budapest Hotel, is inspired by a fictional soiree at the hotel. “Since we were focusing exclusively on formal wear, I wanted to delve deeper into the world of high-end evening dressing using premium Irish fabrics to craft pieces that exude elegance and refinement,” says Ashish and the result is a collection that embodies a red-carpet allure, perfectly suited for the upcoming festive season. Ashish takes us through the collection.
How different is it from your previous collections?
The collection was quite distinct as it was a collaborative effort between our design house and R|Elan. My approach began with exploring the depth and variety of fabrics. I carefully selected materials that resonated with me. Unlike the usual process where design leads the way, this time we began with the fabrics, allowing them to shape the direction of the collection. From there, my thought process was to create a look that felt architectural, stark, and modern, something that truly reflects today’s sensibilities. The focus was on precision tailoring, with most of the pieces being structured, while only select elements introduced a hint of fluidity for balance.
Take us through the nuances of the women’s option and the colour palette and silhouettes you have played around with.
The nuances of women’s wear were quite specific. I had done a lot of pieces for women inspired by menswear, like the women’s tuxedo and the smoking jacket. However, we’ve also done considerable work on fitting a sherwani onto a woman or adapting a bandhgala for a woman. There are also several tuxedo dresses, inspired by the overall feel and aesthetic of The Grand Budapest Hotel.
Take us through the menswear line-up.
The men’s lineup features a range of tailored tuxedos and evening wear coats, complemented by gilets and tie-up shirts crafted in Kooltex fabric. We also incorporated textured polyesters to create bomber jackets, adding a modern edge to classic tailoring. One of the stand-out looks from the presentation and something that received a lot of appreciation was styling a bomber jacket over a tuxedo. It brought a fresh, unexpected twist to traditional menswear.
What are the textures and crafts you have employed?
Choosing a single colour, black as the core of the collection, wasn’t an easy decision. The idea behind using one stark colour was to highlight more than just the formality and sophistication of high-end evening wear. It was also about showcasing the precision of tailoring and the versatility of fabrics, demonstrating how beautifully they can be crafted into impeccably structured garments. A lot of thought went into this choice, with the primary focus being to create something that felt timeless, elegant, and truly representative of high-end luxury.
What‘s trending in occasion wear in winter?
Lots of black-tie variations, and at different lengths—people are looking for more than just classic tuxedos.
What are the occasion wear wardrobe must-haves for men?
The short formal bomber jacket.
What about for women?
Lace trousers and a women’s tuxedo dress.