In the quiet yet culturally rich enclave of Singjamei in Imphal, a new voice in Indian menswear is beginning to resonate with assured clarity. Karles, established in 2025 by designer Angom Dhaneshwor Singh, is not merely a label — it is a narrative woven from memory, heritage and a deeply personal design philosophy. Rooted in Manipur yet attuned to a global sensibility, Karles signals the arrival of a designer who understands that true luxury lies as much in storytelling as it does in craftsmanship.
Dhaneshwor’s journey into fashion is anything but linear and perhaps that is precisely what lends his work its layered depth. A graduate of the Vogue Institute of Fashion Technology, his early career unfolded within the structured world of retail, beginning as a Sales Representative with Tommy Hilfiger India before transitioning into Visual Merchandising. His tenure with industry giants such as Landmark Group India, Future Group India and Reliance Industries Limited honed his understanding of consumer psychology, spatial design and visual storytelling. Notably, a collaboration involving a window display for Cover Story alongside Karl Lagerfeld stands out as a formative moment—an intersection of global fashion language and individual creativity.
Yet, beneath this polished professional trajectory lies a far more intimate origin story. Creativity, for Dhaneshwor, is inherited. His grandfather, a respected tailor and his mother, a celebrated potloi setpi — responsible for styling bridal attire in traditional Manipuri weddings — created an environment where artistry was both lived and revered. It is within this familial legacy that Karles finds its emotional anchor.
The label’s latest collection, Yatra, is emblematic of this synthesis between the personal and the universal. Conceived as an exploration of movement — both physical and metaphysical — Yatra captures the essence of travel as a transformative experience. It is, as the designer describes, “an emotional and spiritual excursion that unites landscapes, customs and identities.” This season, however, the notion of journey expands further to encompass marriage—a deeply symbolic passage where two lives converge, bringing with them tradition, love and the promise of new beginnings.
This thematic richness is mirrored in the collection’s aesthetic direction. While previous edits saw Dhaneshwor engaging with a broader spectrum of Indian textiles and prints, Yatra marks a deliberate shift inward. Here, the focus is on the cultural lexicon of Manipur — its motifs, textiles and artisanal nuances — reinterpreted through a contemporary lens. “The Meitei khoi motif emerges as a central design element, its intricate beauty rendered through refined appliqué, delicate thread embroidery and opulent zardozi work. The result is a language that feels both rooted and refreshingly modern,” he tells us.
The palette, too, speaks in a restrained yet evocative tone. “Shades of brown, ink blue and white dominate, creating a visual rhythm that is understated yet deeply expressive. White, in particular, carries a profound cultural resonance, symbolising purity and grace within Manipuri wedding traditions. Accents of gold punctuate the collection, lending a subtle luminosity that elevates the garments without overwhelming their inherent simplicity,” Dhaneshwor explains.
Fabric choices reinforce this ethos of quiet luxury. “Cotton, linen and silk form the backbone of Yatra, selected not only for their tactile appeal but also for their timeless versatility. There is an emphasis on comfort and breathability, suggesting a wardrobe designed for movement — both literal and symbolic. These are garments that travel with the wearer, adapting to different contexts while retaining their intrinsic identity,” the designer reveals.
Silhouettes remain true to Dhaneshwor’s signature: anti-fit, yet meticulously constructed. There is a deliberate ease to the cuts, a refusal to conform to rigid tailoring conventions, balanced by an underlying precision that ensures each piece holds its form. It is within this interplay of structure and fluidity that Karles finds its distinct voice.
Beyond the garments themselves, what sets Karles apart is its growing cultural footprint. The label has already garnered admiration from a spectrum of Manipuri creatives and public figures, including actress Narmada Shougaijam, actor Teny Nongmaithem, playback singer Chand Ningthou, celebrity photographer Silheiba Sanasam, artist Zaurin Thoidingjam and DJ Shiphu.
With Yatra, Angom Dhaneshwor Singh invites us to consider fashion as a journey — one that honours where we come from while embracing where we are headed. It is a perspective that feels both timely and timeless, marking the emergence of a designer whose work is as thoughtful as it is compelling.
INR 999 onwards. Available online.
Email: romal@newindianexpress.com
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