Designer Stephin Lalan has built a signature language drawing from influences across India, the Middle East and Europe. For his latest collection, Red String Theory, he turns to the Chinese and Japanese folklore of the red thread of fate, translating its quiet symbolism into breathable cotton-linen shirts. Delicate red kantha stitches trace invisible bonds, while black embroidery speaks of distance, resilience and life’s winding journey, creating garments that feel intimate and understated. The designer talks to us about the folklore behind the collection, the symbolism of its red, white and black stitches, and why comfort and inclusivity are central to his design philosophy.
Stephin Lalan on the future of comfortable, inclusive fashion
Where did the idea for this collection come from? How did you discover the folklore of the red thread of fate?
The idea actually came from a Korean series that one of my assistants was watching. I do not watch many Korean shows myself, but she showed me an episode that explored the concept of the red thread of fate. I found the whole idea very interesting, especially the belief that soulmates are connected by an invisible red thread. That thought stayed with me and eventually became the starting point for this collection.
Your collection uses both red and black stitches. What do those colours represent?
The red thread signifies the connection between soulmates, while the black thread represents everything else we go through in life—the burdens, the distance, the struggles, and the ups and downs. Sometimes you travel through those experiences together, and sometimes you go through them before you have even met your soulmate. I wanted both ideas to exist side by side in the garments.
Tell us about the shirts themselves. The silhouettes feel very understated, but there are also playful details such as hearts.
The menswear pieces are relaxed Cuban-collar cotton-linen shirts designed for warm, humid days. They are light, breathable, and comfortable enough to wear throughout the year. I would not classify them as strictly menswear; many of the shirts can easily be styled by women with denims or trousers.
We have a few shirts with heart motifs, one with a gift-inspired detail and a red button, and another pair where a hand motif appears on the right side of a white shirt and on the left side of a black shirt. When the two shirts are worn together, the hands meet. I liked the idea that the garments could suggest connection without being literal. The collection is also intentionally inclusive it is not designed around a specific couple format.
Why did you choose cotton linen for this collection?
I specifically wanted to create something for easy, everyday wear. Cotton linen is extremely comfortable in our climate and works well almost all year round. Fabric comfort was one of the biggest priorities while developing this line.
What is the colour palette like?
I kept it very minimal—mainly off-white, black, and red. The menswear shirts feature hand embroidery throughout. For the women’s pieces, I wanted only a small capsule: shirt-style garments that can be worn as dresses, paired with pants, and styled in multiple ways. Those pieces use digital embroidery across the garment, whereas the men’s shirts are hand embroidered.
These shirts seem easy to dress up or down. Was that intentional?
Absolutely. I wanted them to move easily from day to night. They are casual, but they can also feel dressed up depending on how you style them. When we first sampled a few pieces in the store, customers would try them on and immediately respond to how comfortable the fabric felt. That reaction gave me the confidence to develop the collection further.
Do you think men are more open to experimenting with fashion now?
Definitely, especially after the pandemic. I have seen a significant shift. Many men who come to me are used to slim-fit shirts and structured clothing, but once they try relaxed Cuban collars or oversized silhouettes, they realise how flattering and comfortable they can be. Fashion has become much less rigid.
So the broader trend is moving towards comfort?
Yes, for both men and women. Fashion is much more relaxed now. People are moving away from very tight fits and embracing easier silhouettes, wider trousers, and softer tailoring.
What are you working on next?
My next collection will be connected to Kerala and to memories from my childhood. I spent a few years there when I was young, and I want to revisit those memories through clothing. That is the direction I am exploring for the next season.
Price on request. Available online.
—manuvipin@newindianexpress.com
@ManuVipin