After years of shaping a distinctive voice in India’s luxury fashion landscape, contemporary couture designer Smita Shrinivas unveils her first-ever flagship store at The Corridors, New Delhi. The store launch coincides with a collection launch titled Malhaar. Smita tells us that it all began with a feeling. Rather than interpreting rain literally, she has captured its essence. The designer gives us a peek into the collection.
Smita Shrinivas on the changing landscape of festive and wedding fashion
You describe Malhaar as beginning with a feeling rather than a sketch. What was the very first image or memory that stayed with you?
I’ve always loved how the monsoon makes you pause, even if just for a moment. That emotion stayed with me, and Malhaar was born from that feeling long before I began thinking about silhouettes or fabrics
It was the feeling just before the rain arrives; the air shifts, everything slows down, and there’s a quiet sense of anticipation. I’ve always loved how the monsoon makes you pause, even if just for a moment. That emotion stayed with me, and Malhaar was born from that feeling long before I began thinking about silhouettes or fabrics.
Was there one outfit in the collection that was the hardest to perfect? Why?
Nishabd. I wanted it to capture that magical moment when rain gently wakes you in the middle of the night. You look outside, and it feels as though the sky has come down to the earth, reflected in every puddle. That’s why the cape carries the moon and stars; they’re not in the sky, they’re in the reflections. We spent a lot of time perfecting those details because I wanted people to feel that quiet, dreamlike moment the instant they saw the gown.
Did the collection evolve in a way you didn’t expect during those four months?
Very much so. I began with a soft, understated vision, but as we experimented with fabrics and embroidery, the collection naturally became richer in texture and storytelling. It reminded me that sometimes the design tells you where it wants to go; you just have to listen.
Is there a signature detail in Malhaar that people might miss at first glance?
The collection is full of subtle textures and layered embroidery that reveal themselves only when you look closely. You’ll also find motifs of peacocks, birds, and delicate florals woven into the craftsmanship, each inspired by the beauty of the monsoon
Yes, and I actually love that people don’t notice it immediately. The collection is full of subtle textures and layered embroidery that reveal themselves only when you look closely. You’ll also find motifs of peacocks, birds, and delicate florals woven into the craftsmanship, each inspired by the beauty of the monsoon.
Do you have a favourite monsoon memory that found its way into the collection?
Watching the rain from a window as a child. Everything outside seemed to slow down, and there was such a beautiful sense of calm. That feeling of stillness, comfort, and quiet joy is something I wanted every piece in Malhaar to carry.
What trends do you think will define festive and wedding dressing this year?
I think people are moving away from dressing for trends and towards dressing for themselves. Brides today want timeless silhouettes, meaningful craftsmanship, and pieces they’ll look back on years later and still love. That’s a shift I really enjoy seeing.
Which look from Malhaar would you wear yourself?
Without a doubt, Grihaagman. It’s elegant, effortless, and deeply emotional. To me, it beautifully represents new beginnings, which is such a meaningful emotion to wear.
What excites you most about designing couture today?
For me, couture is still one of the few places where craftsmanship and emotion come together so beautifully. Every piece is made slowly, by hand, and becomes part of someone’s most cherished memories. That’s a privilege I never take for granted.
Has your approach to design changed since you first started your label?
Definitely. Earlier, I was focused on creating beautiful garments. Today, I’m much more interested in creating an experience. I always ask myself how a woman will feel when she wears the piece, because confidence and emotion are just as important as the design itself.
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—manuvipin@newindianexpress.com
@ManuVipin