Rhea Poddar Loyalka’s venture into fine jewellery may be recent, but her approach is unmistakably bold. Challenging traditional perceptions of jewellery, her brand, Deshya, favours experimentation over convention—a breath of fresh air for those who prefer something truly out of the box. With the latest collection, Rhea reimagines preciousness through the transformative power of colour, proving that when it comes to jewellery, bold is indeed better. Each piece stands as a statement, inviting awe and intrigue. This is not jewellery for the faint-hearted, but for women who accept compliments with confidence and never shy away from being the centre of attention.
An authority on distinctive gemstones such as Druzy agates and Japanese coral, Rhea explains that her decision to specialise in rare stones stems from their purity and origin stories.
“Druzy agates form under very specific environmental conditions that result in sparkling crystal formations. Only one per cent of geodes contain Druzy, and geodes themselves are rare. Corals, on the other hand, are organic gemstones that were once living organisms. Over time, ocean sediments transform them into beautiful gemstones that can be worn,” she shares.
Rhea lets the gemstones dictate each collection. “They are the stars of my creations and must always be highlighted,” she says. And the inspiration behind her latest line? “The gemstones themselves—and the need to tell their stories,” comes the prompt reply.
While every gemstone holds significance for her, opals remain a personal favourite. “Opals contain all the colours of the world within them. They sparkle like all the stars in the universe put together,” she says with a gleam in her eyes.
Speaking about craftsmanship, Rhea emphasises the rarity of traditional techniques in a technologically advanced era. “Many pieces in this collection are entirely handcrafted—from gold casting to stone setting. Skilled artisans continue to practise age-old jewellery-making techniques, and that level of dedication is invaluable.”
The collection also celebrates a fusion of global techniques—from Italian enamelling to Indian gold veni work. Stones are set using methods such as channel and flush settings, always guided by the design.
When asked about the rarest gemstones she has worked with, Rhea responds without hesitation. “At Deshya, we pride ourselves on working with rare coloured gemstones. Some of the rarest include Paraiba tourmalines and alexandrites. Paraibas display a neon blue unlike any other gem. The original stones from Brazil are nearly extinct today. Alexandrites are remarkable colour-change stones that shift from green to red depending on the light. A natural gem that can transform in that way is truly extraordinary.”
When it comes to educating clients about lesser-known stones, she says the process is effortless. “The gemstones do most of the talking. Our clients are captivated by their innate beauty. We love sharing stories about how we sourced a particular stone, how it was mined, and how increasingly rare it is becoming. That gives clients a reason to continue collecting gemstone-focused jewellery where colour reigns supreme.”
Prices start at Rs 3,00,000. Available online.
—manuvipin@newindianexpress.com
@ManuVipin
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